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  • The Local Company is easy to miss. Not much action in the windows, a large, opaque door - it's not exactly an inviting neighbourhood resto. On a Thursday night, while Mezes across the street had a line-up practically out the door, the cavernous Local had exactly three tables of diners, including us. I suspect this isn't an unusual occurrence. When we walked in, the bartender seemed like he didn't quite know what to make of us. "Can I help you?" he said. Uh, yeah, I'd like to buy some scented candles, and maybe a lamp. But hey, we walked in because the menu had some intriguing items at reasonable prices. If the catch is that the bartender doesn't know why people walk into a restaurant, so be it. The Local Co. seems to be positioning itself as a lounge more than a restaurant. There are lots of high tables, and couches at the back. (Hope for their sake that the lounge crowds are huge, because 3 tables between 7 and 9 on a Thursday night isn't enough to keep the lights on.) And at the same time, the restaurant tables are so wide, you practically have to shout to talk to the person across from you. Oh, and both TVs behind the bar are showing MMA - which is completely at odds with the design and with that particular night's customers. But enough about the décor. What about the food? Salads - roasted beet with cabbage slaw for my wife, celeriac slaw with bacon and candied walnuts for me - disappoint. Both are served as tall, architectural piles, but are swimming in oil. My slaw has an odd mix of sour, smoky and sweet flavours that don't really come together. And if the stuff on top of the beets is cabbage, I'm a rutabaga. It looks and tastes like shredded lettuce. But then comes the dish that drew us in - so much so that we decided we'd both have it and not share: braised veal cheeks with root veg and risotto. It's perfect: melt-in-your-mouth rich and savoury cheeks, with perfectly al dente veggies and a lovely risotto that absorbs all the jus. And at $17, a bargain compared to similar dishes at west-end joints. We are so full after this, we can't even think about dessert. So: 1 star for the apps and the MMA (at least they didn't have the sound on), 3 stars for the decor, 5 stars for the cheeks. I'd be willing to give this place another shot... but I think next time I'll order soup.
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