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| - If you are pathetic enough to have followed my Yelp reviews for any length of time (yes, I'm talking about you, Mom), you probably are sick of me reviewing the Taverne of Richfield. I've probably reviewed it a half-dozen times, each episode precipitated by another change in ownership or a new chef. It's open. It's closed. It's open again. The magic formula of how to separate the people of Richfield from their money has eluded this place time and time again. (Fortunately, I have been there each step of the way to make lewd, irreverent comments on the whole fiasco.)
So, I really hope this will be my last review of the Taverne. It certainly will be the most positive. Enter chef Jeff Fisher, formerly of Touch Supper Club.
Finally, finally....a bona fide talent in the kitchen. A chef and his cuisine worthy of ye grande olde Taverne. The new summer menu for the Taverne was released today. It is the most exciting menu anywhere around these parts. Jeff has formalized his influence on the direction the restaurant is heading, and the prospects are exciting. (The flaccid Ken Stewart's empire, with their virtual monopoly on fine dining in the Bath/Richfield/Peninsula/Hinckley complex, would be advised to take notice.)
Locavores will find plenty to rejoice in here, with a healthy injection of locally-sourced and seasonal foods throughout the new menu. (Jeff proudly brought out his Amish bee honeycombs to show me, for the new menu's almond panna cotta with honeycomb dessert. Kick ass, dude! ) He also likes to feature wild foods, such a freshly harvested wild leeks, when they're in season. The menu entrees are mostly classic steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta, but each with a unique Mediterranean- or Asian-inspired twist. He's performing a nice balancing act by giving the Taverne's traditional crowd something basically familiar (but often with a bold new ingredient to ponder) while also giving young foodies and locavores something to drool over, too. I think of his cooking as being straightforward, fresh and bold. There's usually not a lot of complex layering of flavors going on...nothing too foofy....but it's always well-executed and flavorful. (If I sound like a bit of wonk, well....the man catered a party of mine a few weeks ago, and I've been basically eating his frozen leftovers every day since then, so yes, guilty as charged. He's like my surrogate mother. )
Last night, we sampled the new menu, and ordered the lobster gnocchi. I usually stay away from shellfish/seafood/pasta combinations because they can be awful when poorly executed, but this was like a deliciously-deconstructed lobster bake, with the potato gnocci and corn providing a preview taste of summer, and blistered tomatoes punctuating it with freshness. It was hearty without being heavy. A real plate-licker.
We finished up with goat cheese ice cream and orange olive oil cake with blueberry compote. Yes, I said goat cheese ice cream. Chef Jeff clearly has an unhealthy obsession with goats and their lactations. (There is goat cheese everywhere on the menu, all courses, especially dessert.) Although this goat-centric worldview not a characteristic you would desire in, for example, a brother-in-law, it's something to be treasured when it comes to a chef. I love goat cheese. It's versatile as hell, and it makes dishes come alive. The goat cheese ice cream starts sweet like a golden vanilla, but trails off with that distinct goat cheese flavor, giving your dessert a savory quality that allows it to pair very nicely with any red wine imaginable. If you've got half-a-glass of cabernet leftover after you're done with your steak, it won't be wasted on this dessert. Very smart.
Throughout all these up and downs (and mostly downs) in the kitchen over the past few years, it's the Taverne building itself that has remained the consistent attraction. The historical old Victorian always provides a sense of elegance and tradition that is hard to find elsewhere. The bar and patio remain the most popular spots within the Taverne, with a friendly and boisterous energy during the evenings. It's a little country elegance in Shaq-ville.
Tremont hipsters: Take a break from inhaling those airborne industrial pollutants and come out here and breathe some fresh air in Richfield, where horses and cows live together in sin, and ice cream is made from goats. You won't regret the trip.
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