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  • One forgets some times that Cleveland is only a half-day's drive from coastal hubs such as New York and Washington DC. When you're in certain parts of the city, the East Coast feels even closer. Little Italy exemplifies Cleveland's unique location in the convergence zone of Midwest and Atlantic values, architecture and aesthetics; it's a dandy little place to stroll around on a casual afternoon, with abundant opportunities for culinary indulgences. The nicely-positioned Mia Bella, one of the many mildly kitschy Italo-American restaurants on the main strip, invites you to saunter in and grab a window table for a slow, lazy lunch. With an ice cold Peroni or Pinot Grigio in hand, check out the view of the neighborhood's narrow, tall, tightly packed turn-of-the-century houses. Peruse the menu of Italian-slash-Italian American classics, and try to come up with a game plan; easier said than done with Mia Bella's long list of appetizing-looking choices. Mia Bella's solid cuisine certainly doesn't attempt to reinvent the wheel or revolutionize the palate. It's all been done before: bright blended marinara sauces, creamy alfredos, pounded veal cutlets, crispy calamari - all falling concretely in the happy and tasty realm of tradition and comfort. If you are a Food Network buff searching for handmade pastas or Cleveland's answer to Mario Batali, however, divert your quest elsewhere. I will vouch for the carbonara, which is served with a creamy and delicious egg yolk-based white sauce and crispy pancetta in a portion that is absolutely shareable. The caesar salad, meanwhile, is light, lemony and pleasant, although beware of possibly boxed croutons. The special antipasti plate was an unfortunate disappointment, as it is so often in US restaurants (...why do I keep ordering it, for Pete's sake?). For twelve dollars, a few meager slices of CD-sized salami, one type of soft cheese, and a handful of grapes...Silly me for having visions of spicy capicola, thin slices of folded, stacked, proscuitto, sopresatta, olives, figs and pickled delights.
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