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| - L'Albatros was my dirty little secret for a few years. I attended Case Western, where this restaurant is located, and I could see it from my freshman dorm window. The dining halls at Case would close at 8 PM for dinner, and I'd often get hungry later, so what's a starving budding foodie to do but hop across the street for a quick bite occasionally? Well, these meals became not so occasional, and eventually I had my own regular table and had sampled every item on the menu multiple times. While it was certainly a splurge unwise for one on a meal plan, I loved the atmosphere of the place, the older clientele that made me feel like not a freshman for an hour or two, and the decadent French food. I may have used an alias on my trips there, even taking on a bit of a flirtier older personality. Don't tell Mom and Dad on me.
The building is adorable. It is brick grown with ivy and encasing a charming garden patio. There's multiple rooms so the restaurant feels full of intimate places to have a quiet conversation, and copious windows keep the space feeling light and airy. At night the place does very much feel like a cute candlelit bistro.
The menu here does not change often (by which I mean it hasn't changed in five years), and unlike many of Zack restaurants, has an obvious theme. It's rustic French cooking, so think cassoulet, sausages with creamy mashed potatoes, a decadent burger, Mussels with pomme frite and Boeuf Bourguignon. I have an emotional bond with many of these dishes, tied to memories of feasting after a good exam, taking parents out during a campus visit, illicit Wednesday night dinners for one, and a graduation feast in the private wine cellar room (a fantastic room for a private party). With the extensive eating I did here through four years of college, I practically majored in the menu at this place. So while I will say all the menu is delicious, and worth ordering, I do have my favorites (in no particular order):
1. I will weep like a baby if they ever take the Goat Cheese Tart with Olives, Sun-Dried Tomatoes and frisée salad ($8) off the menu. This dish is perfect. The texture of the quiche is spot on: creamy, dense, not too eggy and flavorful with olives and zesty tomatoes. The crust is buttery and flaky, and one of the best elements of the dish. There's an olive tapenade and a small salad on the plate that punch through the creaminess with some acidic elements.
2. Radish and Cucumber salad with red onions and crème fraîche vinaigrette ($8). This salad is wholly unique. The creamy slightly tangy dressing feels light and cooling, and the radishes and cucumbers are pretty and crunchy. The salad is always salted perfectly and portioned for a satisfying appetizer.
3. "French Toast"with ragout of wild mushrooms and balsamic syrup ($9). I remember eating this at my first meal here and realizing with the first bite how special this place was. I'm pretty sure a Chef was drunk, high or both when he came up with the idea to do a savory egg battered bread dish smothered in meltingly creamy mushrooms, a butter based sauce and balsamic. The dish is quite heavy, but incredibly tasty and memorable.
4. Roasted Cod with spätzle, sauerkraut, crème fraîche and cornichon aioli ($21). Once again, a dish that tastes comforting with a creative twist. I would not have thought to put classic German sausage accompaniments (sauerkraut and mustard seed) with cod, let alone spätzle, but it works amazingly well. This is another heavier dish, but worth the splurge.
5. The Cheese offerings are serious business around here. Prepared to be schooled in cheeses by a very passionate and dashingly dressed French cheese expert who will guide you through rare and interesting selections.
6. Finally, the standout dessert is the Crème Caramel ($6). I had a very intense monogamous relationship with this dish for the four years I lived close; I would never eat a meal here without ordering it for dessert; it was that perfect. The dish is simple, with just a perfect dense creamy flan surrounded by deep caramel sauce, a dollop of fresh cream and seasonal berries. Each bite is rich caramel heaven. With all the years I had it, it was never once not on point.
In conclusion, I love this place. It's a CWRU institution where many professors go to eat, it's a great date spot, a satisfying lunch joint, a peaceful oasis for just a quiet dinner for one. The staff are marvelous and welcoming, the kitchen is incredibly consistent, and fond memories of meals here will warm the cockles of my cold cold heart for years to come. May you thrive for many many years to come, L'Albatros!
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