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  • Food is a serious problem for the homesick Montreal exile. Although our hometown hosts Michelin-rated establishments , that's not what hits the reptile brain. No, it's the holy trinity: bagels, smoked meat, and poutine. Fifteen years ago, the Canadien errant would just have been out of luck. Fed-Ex and good friends back home could satisfy the bagel and smoked meat cravings, but poutine needs to be hot and fresh, and the few Toronto establishments that attempted it submitted attempts so inadequate that the ex-Montrealer knew better than to bother. That's changed now that poutine has inexplicably become a Toronto trend - but Montreal purists should beware. Toronto poutine may be a worthy dish on its own merits, but it probably won't satisfy yearnings for La Belle Provence. Smoke's poutinerie is a case in point. It offers many variations on the classic dish - chicken, pulled pork, guacamole. Their fries are very good: made of Yukon gold potatoes, soaked overnight, cooked so they're crisp but not greasy. They use real, fresh cheese curds from Quebec. The gravy is carefully-balanced, home-made, and tastes of fresh herbs and real meat stock. If you had never had a Quebec poutine before, you would probably deem this significantly better than what's on offer at Lafleur's. Objectively, it is. But if you're a homesick Montrealer, it just isn't quite right. The curds are fresh, but they're too small, and there should be more of them (ideally, a forkful of poutine should be a glutinous mass you can barely lift out of its grease-soaked container.) But the real problem is the gravy. It's good gravy. I would love it on turkey or a hot chicken sandwich. It just isn't quite right. I don't know what makes real poutine gravy taste as it does - probably some horrible combination of unhealthy chemicals and a life-threatening amount of fat and salt. Smokes's isn't it. Oddly, the most authentic poutine I've had in Toronto is at Stampede Bison Grill in Parkdale, which uses vegetarian (!) gravy. Smoke's makes a good poutine, has friendly staff, offers good value, and is perfect for the bar-goer who needs a good concoction of carbs, grease, and salt to soak up the evening's alcohol. It just won't satisfy the Montrealer fixated on home.
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