| rev:text
| - As I drove down Detroit yesterday, I noticed some action in the old Niko's storefront. It turns out a new restaurant has opened - Jammy Buggars. I was reminded of the Family Guy episode where Peter rattles off a bunch of canceled Fox shows. In this case, I was thinking "Well good for them - that's a great location with a lot of history! Niko's, Bar 2, Niko's, Route 6, Niko's..." I was actually excited to try the latest incarnation in this classic Lakewood venue, so we decided to try Jimmy Baggers for dinner.
When we arrived at Sammy Hagars, we were first greeted at the door by two excited guests seated by the window who were raving about how the food was the best they had ever tasted. Though caught a bit off guard, I figured that was a nice omen. We took a seat in the same booth we sat in when we tried Niko's last time, which felt suspiciously like the booth we sat in when we tried Route 6 a couple years back...
The atmosphere hasn't changed much; It is simple, yet refined - contemporary yet classy. If I had one suggestion it would be to turn up the music or turn down the lights - it's too clean and quiet to be a bar, but too bright and sterile to create the ambiance you would want for a romantic dinner.
Given the menu, I'm assuming the goal was to create a high-end gastropub kind of experience. The menu is a good read; they offer all the traditional American pub fare with some interesting concepts and ingredients, along with a few house specialty entrees. Comparisons to 56 West and Beer Engine aren't out of line - fundamentally, the restaurants are similar, sort of how Franklin sneakers are similar to Reebok Pumps or the 2011 Indians are similar to the 1991 Atlanta Braves. But unlike those baseball teams, I didn't find much to get excited about when it came to game time.
The OMG burger (Swiss, mushrooms, onions) was gristly, underseasoned, and unevenly cooked. The Pulled Pork Sliders were interesting, though I was underwhelmed by the potency of the pickled peppers and pineapple. We also tried the "Frenchy" Fries (truffle oil, parmesan, parsley, garlic mayo). I'm not going to comment on the French fries themselves, because I am beginning to think I might have too high of standards for this American staple, but I will say that the garlic mayo tasted like honey mustard and the chipotle ketchup tasted like French dressing. Also, the signature chips they serve with the sandwiches could have been crispier and fresher.
Overall, the service was good and the owner/manager stopped by our table to greet us. I would say the food was mediocre at best, and a bit pricey for the quality. I guess I would consider giving Bruegger's Bagels another shot in the future just to see how things shake out - I mean, they did just open yesterday. But before I go back, I would probably want to make another run at The Rocky River Brewing Company, 56 West, Beer Engine, The Pub, Pacers, Deagans...
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