This mainstay of grilled Portuguese delights has been permeating the connecting walls to their neighbours and littering the air with whiffs of charcoal smoke for 37 years. The waitstaff has probably been there for most of that time as well, so have the menu items and recipes. Like I mentioned, the crassness of the waiters adds to the "charm" of Chez Doval. Their "take no bullshit" attitude plus the Export As' in their pockets, multiplied by the smell of smoke on their breath is pretty much a clear indication of where you're eating. Eating at Chez Doval is like your uncle had to open up the basement to fit more people in at the family dinner BBQ; you're not allowed to look behind the bar or touch any of the miniature figurines, only you're not sitting at an old card table or using napkins bought on sale from "Cumberland".