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  • Although I enjoyed the dining experience, Wednesday's visit to Durant's lingered on as a punchline that everybody but I understood. Prices here are absolutely through-the-roof; higher than world-class steakhouses whose food is considerably better. The restaurant is a main-drag spot which doesn't look like much from the outside, and the 60's era signage doesn't help. Much attention is drawn to Durant's being here for over 60 years which, in "Phoenix years," apparently equates with pre-Civil War. Diners are paraded through what appears to be part of the kitchen into a long and narrow main dining room adorned in bright red velvet wallpaper. Our server was excellent; thoroughly professional, personable and unobtrusive. My order was for a 12 oz. prime rib (at $42, if I recall) on a dinner which included the soup of the day and one side. The corned beef and cabbage soup arrived first; a thin and under seasoned broth with shreds of boiled cabbage, chopped potato and a fine mince of corned beef. This was a choice which looked better on the menu than it did when placed in front of me; inoffensive, but inconsistent with a meal at this price point. The prime rib and a large crock of garlic mashed potatoes followed. Well-trimmed and nicely cooked to order, the prime rib was under seasoned and inadequately seared before roasting. The meat was a prime grade, but "wet aged," if aged at all; again, failing to fulfill the promise of its menu pricing. A gravy boat full of seasoned au jus and a small dish of absolutely incendiary grated horseradish (I was warned by our waitress) accompanied the prime rib. Each imparted some level of the seasoning so noticeably missing from the beef. The potatoes were exceptional. I understand that Durant's is Phoenix's old-school steakhouse; the place where politicians and the local business elite gather. Two tables away a marriage proposal was made-- and accepted. The food was very good, but the uniqueness and special niche within the local dining scene which added $10+ to a fair market valuation of the meal were lost on this visiting businessman.
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