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| - As I watched our cheerful server patiently (and entertainingly) translate the French-language menu in its entirety, I was at first dubious, then astonished, and finally delighted. It was a glimpse into the workings of an establishment of humble origins that has gained acclaim as one of Canada's premier restaurants.
The service here is genuinely welcoming. I am reminded of the graciousness that defines hospitality at a Danny Meyer restaurant. Without hovering, our servers were there when needed. From a fine wine list dominated by bottles in the triple digits, our server swiftly ascertained our preference for a lower end choice, then narrowed down a flavor profile in just a brief, bantering exchange. It was near worth ordering a second bottle for.
An argument can be made for two bottles. Although renowned as a meat-centric restaurant, Joe Beef is equally at ease with seafood, so a sampling of both is reasonable. One of their more impressive starters were two whole, small trout showered with seasonally fresh vegetables. The tender meat is gently smoked, yielding a flavor that is surprisingly restrained: enough to accent, not enough to dominate. Shellfish shined in an equally wonderful sausage of lobster and clams; plump, juicy, and brimming with the flavors of its ingredients. If the starter menu isn't enough, a few quality, local raw bar options are offered. Raw oysters are de rigueur, but more interesting was a fresh uni prepared in a light tomato sauce and served in its shell, or the sweet snow crab legs.
Of course, it would be sinful to eschew meat at Joe Beef, which offers up a few sharable beef entrees, along with foie gras, Canadian smoked meat, duck, rabbit, horse, lamb, and chicken dishes. Foie gras parfait is flawless; creamy and luxurious, perfectly offset by a bite of crisp, sharp radish on warm, crusty brioche. The same brioche is molded like a nest around smooth horse tartare, although robust seasoning muffled the sweetness of raw horse. Simple, expertly cooked duck breast was a marvel of flavor and succulence.
It is easy to see how this utterly charming restaurant is as famed as it is. It is not for a specific dish, gimmick, or personality. With its constantly changing menu penned only on chalkboard, Joe Beef announces its allegiance to local, seasonal foods, and prepares them exceptionally well. Add to that the warmth of the staff and a uniquely home-like atmosphere between its cozy, tavern-like space inside and a festive outdoor area reminiscent of a patio. It makes for a highly enjoyable, low-key dining experience that seems effortless in execution yet must surely be anything but. And it will have one thinking about a return visit as soon as possible.
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