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| - Solid French countryside comfort food in a location and ambience that absolutely dazzle. This is the definition of romantic dining, if you're into that sorta thing. The ambling, intimate and interesting restaurant space has several motifs to choose from. If you like a modern feel with bright colors, go to the room straight past the host desk and the bar. If you want a space that feels cozier and more traditional, sorta like what I envision an old chateau in the Loire Valley
to look like, turn left at the desk; you'll find yourself in an immaculately-restored cluster of rooms with deep mahogany (I think) walls, built in wine glass shelves, exposed brick, candles galore, and windows that look out onto the patio through the branches of arborvitae and hydrangeas. Dynamite spot. Ask for table #203 if you are a party of two; you won't regret it.
If you're a fan of Chinato and other Zack Bruell joints, the food will have a familiar ring to it: carefully built classics and variations on classics that evidence good cooking technique with a reasonable degree of creativity, with a price tag that won't break the bank. Case and point is the cassoulet ($22), a dish which, in true Cleveland style, features an expertly seared, mouthwatering piece of pork belly, along with homemade sausage, as well as a duck confit leg with skin perfectly crisped on all sides. The waiter fittingly called it a "deconstructed" cassoulet: the protein parts, which sit on top of a tender white bean stew, are all cooked separately and placed atop the beans at the end to maximize their texture and freshness,whereas in a traditional cassoulet, meats elements would stew slowly together in the liquid, creating a gumbo-like result. The end product is an incredibly satisfying, albeit uber-rich indulgence, served in an All-Clad stainless steel skillet for extra effect. If you make it through the dish with any appetite still intact, the creme caramel makes a nice finale to your evening; textbook texture, not-too-eggy, and large enough to share.
Servers, runners, bussers and managers are very on top of their games here, stealthily appearing at your table when needed or required. Waitstaff is knowledgable and will eagerly guide you in pairing your dish with wine (great selection of glass pours btw), if you so desire. Your water glass won't ever be half empty (or half full), and you will always have two pieces of delectable, crusty sourdough on your bread plate. It's tactful pampering, without the pretension and display of an urban steakhouse.
WIth Trentina, The Barking Spider, Little Italy and loads of city attractions within footsteps of the restaurant, L'Albatros is a great anchor point for a restaurant crawl, a day trip, or even a weekend getaway in Cleveland. The Glidden House - an immaculate boutique hotel with very reasonable rates - sits almost next door to the restaurant. For a nice birthday or anniversary indulgence, book yourself a room overnight and enjoy an extra glass of wine or port with your dessert at L'Albatros.
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