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| - By now considered a Madison institution, New Seoul has been serving up as close to authentic Korean cuisine as you'll find in the area, unless you crash someone's dinner party. I recently grabbed a late lunch there while walking home from downtown Madtown. An unassuming storefront and simple decor will make you think the food is the sole (Seoul?) focus, which is fine with me. In all my years of eating there, I've only scratched the surface of the menu, because I just can't get past their Rock Cooker Bibimbop. A superheated stone bowl sizzling with rice, layered with sprouts, spinach greens, shredded carrots, and tofu, topped with a sunny-side up egg, this dish is one of the simplest, most satisfying meals to be had, and is a great demonstration of an evolving dining experience, as temperature, texture, sights and sounds change as you dig in. The egg yolk transforms from runny creaminess to rich, almost hard-boiled texture as it sizzles against the rock bowl, the crisped fried egg white in tow. The veggies, starting out cold, change from fresh and snappy to yielding and caramelized in minutes. Excavating through the rice, the pillowy starchiness gives way to a crisp shell that's a great contrast. All through this, enjoy an assortment of the usual suspects- miso soup, kimchi, pickled radish and cucumber, and candied sweet potatoes- to complete the dining experience. And if that doesn't do it for you, there's always that stick of Juicy Fruit gum that comes with every purchase. Service was prompt and cordial as always, and the food was amazing. The only reasons I have for giving 4 stars instead of 5 are personal preferences. I am a fan of spicy kimchi, yet the variety served here tastes "younger" and less fermented than I prefer. And, having tried such a small portion of the menu, I feel like I can't give a complete review. Next time I visit I'll try something new, and maybe we'll bump them up to a 5!
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