You have to make a reservation to see the upper cliff dwellings. Every time I've found the time, I've missed out because the available slots were taken. That was the case again recently when I called. Fortunately, I was told about Heritage Days when the upper cliff dwellings would be open without reservations. Happy days.
I slept down the highway at the Schoolhouse campground -- well worth the six bucks to sleep under the stars -- so I'd be ready to pounce upon the opportunity the moment the rangers opened the trail. At 9:00am, I jumped ahead of a coterie of seniors -- I have no shame -- and hiked up the rocky trail as fast as I could to give myself a 15-minute opportunity to experience the ruins alone (albeit with a few rangers) and take some photos.
The views from these dwellings are spectacular. By the time I was ready to descend the trail, the masses had arrived and were making their way up the trail. Latecomers had to park their cars on the highway because the parking lot and road to the visitor center was already filled.
A few folks from Phoenix said they had never been to Tonto National Monument and I was surprised. The drive from the city to Tonto is a fantastic one as it takes you through some scenic small towns and twisty mountain roads. This is the quintessential weekend getaway. C'mon Phoenix folks, it's time.