In August, I was walking with my mom down Marquette to one of my favourite brunch spots, Maison Publique. Before we could see into the full-length window beside the bar, someone in an apron stepped out of the window in front of us. He waved and began picking herbs from the small garden under a tree growing out of the sidewalk. Chef Derek Dammann came into view behind the bar and greeted me with such warmth I was convinced he recognized me from my frequent visits. I introduced him to my mom.
The food here is fearlessly rich - they grill their Croque-monsieur in maple syrup. I find most restaurants are too timid with their hollandaise, but Maison Publique's smoked salmon benny has a bright, lemony flavour. The decor of dark wood and brass trimmings creates the feeling of dining on an expensive yacht, many decades in the past.