Laloux has changed chefs,menus,staff,clientele many times in the 15 years I've been dining there but what has always remained the same is the attention to detail,the clean,uncluttered lines and decor,the seemingly effortless but unwavering service,their impressive yet approachable wine selection and the food.....Yes the food.....Most of the time.
Dinner started with glass of pinot to accompany a beautifully prepared charcuterie board displaying 4 verities of country pate,thinly sliced ham,sausage,several mustard's of both smooth and grainy and cornichons with the traditional french bread and a smooth salty butter...a good start.
A appetizer of bison carpaccio with a white mushroom sauce and popcorn was delicious,too small and confusing all at the same time...Popcorn? but the Foie Gras torchon on a brioche bun with a sweet/tart apple compote was excellent.
My lamb loin came to the table perfectly rare with a creamy citrus sauce and a fried herbed hassleback potato, a good savory presentation but again held only 3 bites at most.
A line caught tuna belly just barely introduced to a hot pan was next with a green pepper sauce was again very good.
Did this particular dinner hit all it's marks? No, sadly not. Plates were overly contrived and it's contents were under seasoned and minuscule even by Parisian standards. It was as if the kitchen put together the dishes with a photo opp in mind and forgot a actual human still need to eat,taste and be sated by it's contents..... Not to mention a rather expensive art project even with the generous exchange rates.
I still can't force myself to give less than 4 stars to Laloux because over the years I've had a few disappointing dinners there but the kitchen always seems to catch themselves when they drift too far,Chefs moved on and Laloux shines brightly once again.
I still look forward to my next meal at Laloux as should you.