This is the place for old school Italian. Rustic, romantic, not kitchy decor. No canned, bottled or premade anything. Courteous, enthusiastic, solicitous service. Lots of Frank Sinatra music. It is wonderful for a quiet, relaxed family dinner, but it would also be charming for a romantic date. Other customers included very, very (very!!) well dressed older couples that all seemed to know the owner. In fact, we came to the restaurant on the recommendation of an attorney who travels all the way from the east side to eat here.
I can understand why. The food was really special. The appetizers and main dishes were made with care and thought. The fritti appetizer-- here zucchini, artichoke hearts and shrimp-- was coated with an eggy, well seasoned batter. The bread on the table was pleasantly crusty with a soft, dense middle.
I had the salmon puttansesca special. The sauce was the best puttanesca I have ever tasted. The ingredients were fresh and not overcooked, yet the flavors were still well blended. I could discern the garlic, anchovies, bright green capers and Italian olives, yet all the flavors melded with each bite. The salmon was nicely seared. The pasta and steamed vegetable accompaniments seemed like mere afterthoughts-- innoffensive.
Mon cher chou had the gnocchi. Here they serve it with a spicy red sauce instead of the usual whie wine or cream sauce. Although the sauce was very good, I think I like a lighter sauce better with heavy gnocchi, BUT the gnocchi themselves were light, pillowy and delicious.
The chef and waiter were very accommodating of children. The chef offered, without being asked, to make anything she liked with the ingredients of anything on the menu. How kind! She ended up having pasta and meatballs, no sauce (yeah, I know). The meatballs were firm and flavorful without the excess filler found at so many other restaurants.
Dessert. Ahh dessert. Herself had a dish of chocolate gelato with biscotti. I didn't get to try this. She wasn't giving up a drop! Mon cher chou and I split a divine bit of tiramisu. That was a well balanced! The marscapone, lady fingers and coffee liquor were in complete harmony-- with none overpowering another. Molto bene!
My one real complaint was the parmesan. The water had a silver dish of the pre-ground stuff. Ick. Sawdust! I would sacrifice a little charm for some freshly shaved parmesan from one of those grinders. It tastes so much better-- night and day. I will be back, though, to try the lamb and the seafood.
NB, this place is very hard to find. It is in a strip mall across from the power plant on Lake Road. Look for the big white theatre sign advertising ice cream, coffee and massages (seriously!). Aroma is on the very corner.