Shortly after Joshua Clark's The Goodwich decided to go full Brick n' Mortar in DTLV it was announced that the small stall out front of Dino's Lounge would be turned into The Goodwich: TBD "culinary incubator," and although several scheduling issues prevented a visit to premier tenant Justin Kingsley Hall's "SLO-Boy Food" during its first three months a meal on Friday proved what several Chefs have been saying for awhile - Chef Hall has a whole lot of talent.
Named after the Chef's home of San Luis Obispo, but equally applicable as relates to the Slowfoods movement with a focus on technique, product and sustainability, SLO-Boy presents a concise menu of roasted meats and local produce cooked with precision that far outperforms the humble environs and although "take-out" only, with a few outdoor seats plus the option for those 21+ to eat at Dino's, these limitations seem minor in comparison to the food's overall execution.
Reaching out to Chef Justin in advance, a coursed meal of SLO-Boy's current menu served by brown-paper-bag and Economical packaging with plastic forks, knives and spoons plus paper "share plates" brought from home, it was inside Dino's under *that* famous photograph of Johnny Cash that the four-course/dozen-item tasting was undertaken and with vivid descriptions as well as clever naming each item that arrived showed the work of a Chef willing to go the extra mile, no-doubt something honed through years of travel and time working at Comme Ca alongside Brian Howard.
Starting off with a trio, the new menu not exactly "light" eating despite low prices with sides $5-7 and entrees topping-out at $14, it seems only appropriate that a California native would offer Avocado Toast, but upping the ante on "Highway 46" with Pea Tendrils and blistered Tomatoes for acidity Hall's ability to coax flavor from fresh produce is immediately thrust front-and-center, the crispy Half Chicken far lighter than the usual fried stuff atop a vibrant salad while the "Coq Au" Sandwich is funky yet fresh by way of pate juxtaposing house-pickled vegetables - charcuterie as a condiment, by way of a sandwich.
Certainly not "fine dining," patrons of the Dive-Bar occasionally belting out sounds as the soundtrack ranged from Miley Cyrus to Pantera, course two saw the team send out John S. Park, PB&L, Cauliflower Steak and Cigar City, the proteins each cooked as well as some seen at Michelin-Starred establishments with the Pork Belly particularly noteworthy as Hall achieves the perfect balance of crisp-but-still-fatty, and yet as good as each of these items were there is little doubt that the Charred Cauliflower Steak is the surprise hit of menu as a result of light smoke dancing beneath pureed Green Olives plus the concentrated flavor of Tomatoes and gently poached Fennel.
Some at the table already full, an all-in bill below $120 essentially a complete look at SLO-Boy's current offerings but undoubtedly a lot of food, round three saw weekly special "Lamb for Logan" served alongside Hall's raved Grass Fed Tri-Tip, Baby Steak Fries and Bucky Duck, the pasta unfortunately a bit overdone though the Lamb and Mushroom ragout was outstanding while the lean Beef and confit Duck Leg again spoke of superior ingredients treated with the respect they deserve, the Harissa Carrots as good as rumor would have it while the melting Brie Crepe was textbook.
Rounding out the evening with Whiskey Bread Pudding - those fancying more subtle desserts well advised to abstain - there may be no finer example of the dish outside of Herringbone in the city at this moment and at just $5 per "Thick Cut" the custard soaked slice offers a perfect sear atop layers of creaminess, the base itself already impressive before a bath in luxurious Caramel sauce.
****Taking into account the limitations of its kitchen and setting Justin Kingsley Hall's SLO-Boy Food will be a tough act for any The Goodwich: TBD concept to follow, the up-coming months promising to be big ones for the young Chef with whatever comes next hopefully building on these concepts and an even bigger audience soon to see his considerable skills.