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2013-05-20T00:00:00
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4
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....Unlike the vast selection of vino, the menu at SB is short but well varied, separated into the categories of Snacks, Apps, Mains, Sides & Desserts. While there were a number of items I could have happily tucked into, in the end we opted to go with: Crispy Chicken Tails with Potato Salad- Apparently filled with bone marrow, the chicken tails had a wicked crunch and oozed with rich fatty goodness. The accompanying potatoes were tender inside, and caramelized outside, and were brought to life by a smear of tangy spicy cream sauce. Salt Cured Foie Gras, Preserved Quince, Brioche and "L'Effet Papillon" Raw Honeydew- A smooth and buttery slice of foie, with just enough sweetness from the quince and honeydew. I loved the crispy ethereal slices of brioche, but I did find they tended to crumble under the weight of the terrine. Beef Cheek Bourguignon with Sunchokes, Perth Bacon, Roasted Mushrooms and Red Wine Onions- Gilded with little streaks of melted fat, this was some of the most tender and juicy beef ever to grace my lips. My only criticism was that I felt it could have used a touch more salt. Accompaniments were seasoned much more evenly, with the bits of crispy bacon bringing a kick of smoky flavour. I particularly loved the beautifully cooked sunchokes which lent a nice element of nutty sweetness to the otherwise savoury dish. Slow Cooked Half Chicken with Rutabaga Puree, Celery and White Wine Sauce- This was probably our least favourite dish, but it still very well prepared. The chicken was generous in portion, astonishingly moist, and seasoned perfectly, while the puree of rutabaga was silky and slightly sweet. However, having been cooked Sous-Vide and thus, lacking the salty crispy skin I appreciate with poultry, I found the texture of the dish a little one-note. Yes, there were a few crunchy fried bits on the plate, but I would have sacrificed half the portion of chicken for something with a little more bite to it. Brioche Doughnuts with Caramelized White Chocolate- Well, the dessert menu read as if I had written it myself, with both offerings being my two all time favourite sweets, doughnuts and STP. Despite the menu description, I would say that this was a great dessert for people who don't like things too sweet. The doughnuts were fluffy and light as air, without even a trace of grease or heaviness on my palate, and the caramelized white chocolate lent just enough sugar so as to convince oneself it wasn't another savoury course. Solid dish. Sticky Toffee Pudding with Figs, Bone Marrow Caramel and Chantilly Cream- But then there was the STP. Now, I consider myself a real STP connoisseur. I order it any time I see it on a menu, and often seek out restaurants just because they offer it. While certainly not authentic, this one was a real gem. It was beautifully moist, bouncy and soft, and enhanced by the gentle pop of the fig seeds between my teeth. The caramel was sumptuous and sweet without being cloying or heavy, while the Chantilly cream brought a luscious richness to temper the sweetness. Usually STP is a dessert you finish and then (sorta) regret because of all the syrupy sugar going on, but like the rest of the meal at SB, this course felt surprisingly light. So for 3- 3 oz pours of wine, 2 "share" plates, 2 mains, 2 desserts, 1 dessert wine and 1 drip coffee (no cappuccino unfortunately), the bill came to about $150 including tax and tip. I found the prices reasonable, the portions generous, the food well thought out and executed, the room cozy and the service spot on. It was an enjoyable evening and I'm thrilled to see another winner of a restaurant in Toronto's East. Future restaurateurs, please take note. Leslieville is picking up!
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