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2011-10-18T00:00:00
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4
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Due to its plethora of imported draft options, I was disappointed to see the Pub go, but Burntwood seems to be a step up for two reasons. First, it matches all those taps the Pub boasted, but emphasizes delicious and widely varied domestic micros. If you're not a boozehound like me, the second reason is more compelling: The food appears to be considerably better than the Pub's. I don't mean that as damning with faint praise; the Pub had some lousy dishes, but it did many things competently. Nonetheless, I'm happy that Burntwood seems to have more ambition and a more coherent menu. My husband and I were impressed by the food: artichoke and Tasso fondue, fish (cod) and chips, and perfectly blackened scallops swimming in a refreshing gazpacho. It was imaginative and a cut above your standard pub fare. The fondue was accompanied by a delightful pickled red onion that did a nice job of cutting the delicious fattiness of the dip. My fish and chips arrived with a jalapeƱo tartar sauce and a slaw that featured Napa cabbage and red onion. Servers were on their toes from the second we stepped in - efficient and friendly. They seem determined to avoid any early missteps. It's easy to see why, since the owners have clearly sunk a lot of time, money and effort into the space. Speaking of which, the space is well done, but could be a bit cold on a less-than-crowded night. Gone is virtually every trace of the faux British pub. In its place is a warm mixture of modern and rustic with a heavy emphasis on natural wood and simple accents. Think of it as a space that Danish architects designed in Kentucky to age bourbon.
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