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| - Having spent many years in Montreal, where you can find a French restaurant on any busy street, I was somewhat reluctant about eating at Comme Ça in the Cosmopolitan. It's not that I mistrusted chef David Myers or his experience with France's time-honored cuisine, but with so many restaurants to choose from in Vegas, I often err on the side of trying something new and different when I am dining out, versus turning to the classics or the all too familiar.
While this brasserie's menu lists many of the standards one might expect to find at a French bistro, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that they were prepared with a slightly modern take that transcended their Gallic lineage.
Last month's Restaurant Week was the excuse for my visit, and the fixed menu helped me narrow down the many menu choices I wanted to put to the test and compare to the bistro meals that had come before. And while some restaurants create a special menu for this week and tend to stray too far out of the box, the Restaurant Week menu here offered dishes that were equally available a la carte, so one could really sample what Comme Ça had to offer.
I opted for the the foie gras appetizer. It was perfectly seared. Its outer coating was caramelized just enough to steadfastly hold together the unctuous liver that ebbed out to play with the sweet-but-spicy jammy peach coulis served with it.
This was followed by the brick-roasted lemon chicken. While the slow-cooked veal served with a crispy polenta was tempting, as was the wild mushroom risotto, I was curious to see how Comme Ça might tackle a theoretically simple dish. Theoretically because a perfectly roasted chicken should have a crispy skin, tender and succulent white breast meat, and pull in its baptized flavors with conviction. This chicken epitomized happiness, hitting all of these marks. What's more, it was served with delectable confit potatoes (fried in duck fat) and a tasty ingot of roasted garlic.
Dessert was a delightful salted caramel mousse that was served alongside a dark chocolate ice cream (that was equally fighting for my spoon's attention), the whole garnished with a pleasantly bitter cocoa nib crumble.
The meal ended much too quickly. I'll have to revisit Comme Ça if only to try their bone marrow and oxtail jam, handmade charcuterie, their roasted lamb, and a few of their daily "plats du jour" (or plates of the day): Monday is fried chicken night; Tuesday serves the "best parts of the pig"; and Thursday offers homemade sausage.
But this time I am leaving any initial hesitancy I had behind, and bringing only my newfound fondness for this bistro.
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