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| - Have been holding back on this review for a few weeks because I was disappointed at the time and wanted to consider the meal again from a distance. It was painfully average: the ambiance, the service and the food itself. L'Express had been recommended to me previously by a lovely couple I'd met in Montreal a couple of years prior. A woman at a bar in Toronto also mentioned it in passing. Two random recommendations for a restaurant in the Plateau Mont-Royal area? I was sold.
The area is uber-trendy, bustling and vibrant. L'Express has been a fixture in the neighborhood for decades, priding itself on classic French bistro fare. Maybe this is why I was surprised that the mood inside was dated and stale. It lacked the energy of the nearby restaurants. There's something to be said about tradition, but there's also something to be said about being flexible and revamping yourself over time.
We ordered the bone marrow appetizer to start - always oily but perhaps not enough flair on this dish. Maybe flavored salt or some other garnish would have elevated it. Normally you can't go wrong with salt & fat on crusty bread, but it was banal in creation. It needed more. For our main, we split the hangar steak and frites. There's nothing more traditional about this standard bistro dish - and although the frites were fresh, the steak was on the chewy side. With every bite I tried to reconcile and defend it, but I couldn't get past the number of times I had to chew and chew and chew. Medium rare and difficult to choke down.
The creme brûlée dessert was flawless and the wine (Pinot noir and Bordeaux) complemented the meal nicely. It took a little bit longer than expected to obtain the bill.
Overall, this was probably a case of unrealistic expectations that colored an experience that could have gone two ways: viewing the restaurant as a stalwart that pays homage to the classics of French bistro dining, or being disappointed by a traditional giant that has failed to progress with the creativity of its neighbors. I'm sad to say the latter was my take, but I'd still go back in the hopes of finding the magic of convention.
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