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| - I was hoping I could get a 5 star review out of one of the restaurants on my list in Vegas, and I am delightfully able to grant that esteemed privilege to L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. I'm sure he'll hang this printout next to his Michelin star(s). Seriously though, this is how I wish all tasting menus were composed. It was incredibly thoughtful and well composed, but without being stupid. Fancy, yes, absurd no. There were no lavender pillows or dry ice involved...but it wasn't needed. Superior to both Alinea and Trotters on the visits I've made, and rated "below" them both from a Michelin perspective.
The tasting menu, as I said, was outstanding. Some real standouts included the amuse bouche - a really nice tomato gazpacho with avocado cream and cucumber. Crisp, cold, and refreshing, like a super high end V8, honestly. A very good start to the meal. A scallop seared in ginger lemon grass oil and topped with scallions was perfectly cooked and succulent. The asparagus, slid inside large macaroni, topped with broiled cheese, and served with sweet, softened tiny onion strips and ham was outstanding - I would never equate macaroni with asparagus, but it works.
However, my favorites were the sole, and king crab, and the quail. The sole was mild, light, moist and flaky, again in a light oil, but with thin slices of fresh ginger and baby leeks, plus tiny crispy onion rings. The combination of the sharp ginger and the savory onion with that light sole was outstanding. The ginger didn't overpower, but added a little bit of a light spicy citrus flavor to the mild fish. King crab was good, though not standout, but in a tangy dressing, with curry powder and incredibly crisp bell pepper - seemingly shaved from very near and including the skin, so that it crackled when chewed, and that served as a good texture counterpoint to the crab, and provded an excellent green taste compliment to the crabmeat and dressing.
And the quail. Oh, the quail. Probably one of the most thoughtful dishes I've ever eaten. Quail pan seared and glazed with a soy honey sauce, stuffed with rich foie gras, with truffled mashed potatoes on the side, and a terrific salad of dill, chervil, taragon, and frisee on the side, topped with truffle vinaigrette. This was my requisite, 5 star, "oh my god" moment. The lightly gamey quail was divine combined with almost melted, creamy foie gras, and the salty sweet glaze over all of it. That unique herb salad was the perfect counterpart to a heavily salty/savory meat and potato combo - really creative and appropriate touch. I'll take a few more of these please...
Dessert was no slouch either - delicious vanilla short bread with frozen pineapple mouse, light lime cream, superb, crisp, refreshing lemongrass sorbet, and pop rocks on top for a little sparkle. Nothing wrong with having a little fun - I would have honestly guessed crushed pineapple life savers until I let one hit my tongue - easy to correct my guess from that point. Even some shaved pineapple, marinated in ginger and black pepper, on the side, which was no slouch as far as garnishes go. A very light, crisp dessert, which was nice after the rich quail. Finally, something similar to what I've experienced at Frontera Grill - citrus with chocolate. A grapefruit gelee and grapefruit segments with a light cocoa nib sorbet, hazelnut parfait, and some foam (have to have foam). I never used to think this would be a good combo, but the chocolate/hazelnut obviously go together, and the grapefruit is a wonderful match, strange though it seems.
Service was outstanding as well - I sat at the bar and watched over a staff busily assembling each dish with tweezers - no joke. Maybe this is common, I don't know, as I usually can't see the kitchen when I'm at spots like this. My waiter, Kawika, was exceedingly helpful with recommendations (I had to choose the quail or the lamb - I chose right), discussions of the flavors in the dishes, just a very polite and attentive server.
As I said, this was a better tasting menu than I've ever enjoyed. Better than Alinea in its mix of flavors and general execution. Better than Charlie Trotter's...which I haven't even written a review for, as I can't remember it well enough. I had my "oh my god" moment during that quail course, so I have no problem awarding 5 stars. It won't win on value - more than Tru or Sixteen would be in Chicago, although still less than Alinea or Trotter's. But the food and the service was truly outstanding. I'm very happy I splurged.
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