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| - The wife and I ducked into Dante on a Friday nite, after the Tremont Art Walk, without a reservation. The hostess was able to sneak us in ahead of another reservation...I really appreciated this. It foretold of good things, and we had excellent service all night, despite being last-minute interlopers. (We exited our table with exactly 1 minute to spare.)
A converted old-style bank with high, ornate vaulted ceilings, Dante's occupies a truly beautiful space in Tremont. The downside to all this open verticality is that's also it's pretty noisy...not so loud that you'll require semaphore flags or hand-signals or anything...but loud enough to be a distraction.
The food was overall pretty good, if a bit-heavy handed. With several dishes, the ingredient that should have been in the spotlight ended up becoming a minor side-show. The crudo appetizer was overwhelmed by the heavy fried okra and sauce, and the octupus disappeared in the heirloom tomato salad. Both dishes were still enjoyable, but you needed to isolate the octopus and crudo to even stand a chance of tasting it at all...like LeBron calling a clear-out: "Bosh, get the fuck out of the lane and go pour me a vodka soda." Also, you've got some weird portion sizes happening with a la carte side dishes. (Like, do you really need to confound me with 3 different portion sizes of polenta?) You have to piece together your own menu like a jigsaw puzzle, which is the sort of intellectual exercise that I really try avoid on Fridays after 5PM. We both spent a long time looking at the menu, wondering what the hell we were supposed to be doing. (If we had more time to eat, the chef's tasting menu might have been the way to go, just to remove yourself from all that decision-making.)
Overall, I think this might be a good drink and appetizer spot, just to hang out and enjoy this very cool old building. Maybe hang out with some happy-hour bankers who just can't get enough of this stuff...sniffing out the trace scents of old money that used to slumber in the vaults here...hell, I don't know what motivates those people. The menu is full of exciting, ambitious, seasonal ingredients, but sometimes there was just too much stuff happening on our plates to recommend Dante as prime dining destination. It was like Yngwie Malmsteen was back there in the kitchen...DUDE...EDIT!!!
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