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  • Visiting from San Francisco, heard about Atlantic from a friend of a friend, and approached with trepidation, as I always do with new restaurants. When calling for a reservation, I was bemused by the voice mail message, a cacophony of crashing pots in the background, a confusion about days of service. What was I getting myself into? And when we arrived, the first diners that night, the menu had yet to be printed. What was I getting myself into? But my fears were melting away as I sipped a perfectly concocted Champagne cocktail. The hostess/bartender/server/busser/sommelier (all one gracious gal) offered sage advice on putting the meal together and finding the wines to match. But the food! Each dish was as close to perfect as one could hope for. The variety presented on the menu, not just in ingredients but in seasonings and preparation, was a perfect balance of diversity and confluence of a singular vision. Each ingredient chosen with care, and prepared in a way to enhance its natural beauty and flavor. I could go through each delightful dish, but that is so boring. It is the passion, skill and attention to nuanced matching of flavors that distinguish both the menu as a whole, and each plate delivered that has made this my new favorite restaurant in Toronto. Well okay, I will describe a few dishes. The Lobster Bisque had the deep yet delicate aroma one always hopes for but rarely gets. A combination of essence of Lobster, Ocean and Culture, when one is both at service to the Lobster, and yet masters the difficulty of coaxing the true flavors out of their shell. And the Quail, cooked perfectly, balanced flavors and textures in the salad of arugula and nuts, and enough acid to play off the rich smoke of the bird. But stop reading this and go. Was there a flaw? Well I think if the lone front of the house person had a sidekick, that would have been nice, for everyone. I would gladly work without wanting tips or pay, if I was just allowed to share family meal. If someone wanted to apprentice, to be close to a chef who is truly talented, the learnings would be more than adequate compensation.
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