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| - Located a few doors down from Bread and Butter, the long awaited sophomore effort from Chef Chris Herrin (former head baker at Thomas Keller's Bouchon) is available for Henderson residents to enjoy. Born and raised in Tennessee myself, I came in with high expectations to find an option for my Southern comfort food cravings. As the name implies, one has the choice of one meat (options on my visit were a half roasted chicken, half fried chicken, beef brisket, and porchetta (Italian style boneless pork wrapped and roasted in a layer of pork belly!) and up to three sides ($10.95, $12.95, and $14.95) for 1,2,3 respectively. One has columns of options posted chalkboard style above the register including cold and hot sides. While this may seem steep from the meat and side offerings at your local KFC/Boston Market, rest assured that the portions are generous enough to easily feed two or more unless you want the full Southern experience of diabetes and heart failure.
Communal tables are situated to evoke a picnic-like atmosphere for group meals and mingling with fellow neighbors and the decor is homey and unintimidating. I loved the fact that Chef Herrin himself was doing his best rendition of providing Southern hospitality weaving in and out of the kitchen greeting all the customers and he kindly offered the first thing I try was the fried chicken.
The fried chicken did not disappoint as the coating had a solid crunch with a peppery finish and the chicken has been previously soaked in a salt brine resulting in a pristine texture full of flavor and succulence. For those who have sampled the Ludo Truck from LA, this was very reminiscent of their fried chicken minus the profile of the herbs de provence. Whereas nowadays there is often a movement towards complete transformation of common dishes to be consumed in a gourmet setting such as the ubiquitous lobster mac and cheese, the food here has a bit more restraint where humble dishes are prepared with a gourmet flare such as the addition of distinct notes to common sides such potato salad (fresh dill and crispy bacon) and green beans (fresh lemon and caramelized onions). With constant variation in the side items available on any given day, one will never get bored with the dizzying array of possibilities such as cheddar polenta with rosemary and blackeyed peas or roasted root vegetables with kale salad. One also has the option to count dessert as one of their sides ranging from cakes to pastries and pudding cups that would have Bill Cosby going into a zim-zam and bobidy-bibidy frenzy.
Perfect for dining in for a homestyle family dinner or picking up for a gourmet picnic sure to impress a loved one on an outdoor hike in any of the nearby trails/parks, this is yet another wonderful addition to the neighborhood in terms of both local flavor and building community.
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