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  • The Sultan of Samosas is the Emperor of the whole samosa enchilada, the entire universe of the Indian empañada. He is the undisputed King of crisp crunchy curried veg, the shogun of chopped chicken tandoori, the grand poobah of potato-and-spice pastry-wrapped pleasure, the Shah of spinach and cheese, the lord of lightly spiced lentils. The Sultan dispatches doughy potatoey pretenders to the steppes of Scarberia. There are 10 kinds of samosa here and every one of them is perfect. You can enjoy thin almost-brittle-with-crispiness samosas stuffed with sinful ground beef or lamb or my favourite steak and potato. Dunk them in the mango chutney or the perfectly executed date-and-tamarind sweet and sour sauce - or even my favourite coriander and green chilli and yogurt. Could a strip mall get any closer to heaven? Yes - if they open a Beer Store next door. But perhaps I should temper my praise of this tiny take-out with some criticism... hmm. The samosas are a bit small - but I actually like that. Anything else? Ok, they do emerge from the deep fryer like a dozen drunk fat guys rising out of a hot tub - steaming, dripping, spitting. Lay them gently on a piece of kitchen towel for a few seconds, gaze upon them lovingly as they cool and they will reward you with oral joys like you have rarely experienced (no, not the fat guys silly, the samosas). In closing, the Sultan rules, long live the Sultan.
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