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| - PARTIAL REVIEW....In general, I think we all found the drinks on the sweeter side but still quite drinkable and tasty. Even the "Goddess of Alcohol" which was described as the "strongest" drink on the menu had a good level of sugar going on. The sangria was by far the most dry of the bunch, with a good hit of brandy in the mix. Personally, however, I thought the best cocktails were the Cucumber Devil and the Mayan, which were refreshing and well-balanced with a nice kick of heat. My least favourite of the bunch was Watermelon Fire because the watermelon was almost syrupy and artificial tasting. I also wouldn't want to finish an entire Aqua de Coco since I'm not a fan of creamy booze drinks at all. Having said that, there were so many tempting options on the menu, I'm sure with a little more sampling (g-d help me), I'd find even more boozy favourites.
The food at El Catrin has been imagined and executed by Olivier LeCalvez, a French-trained, Cordon Bleu Mexico culinary instructor who was recruited straight from Mexico for the opening. His approach seems to be to combine traditional preparations with local flavours and playful presentations. In comparison to most of the new tapas style restaurants in the city, El Catrin touts a beast of a menu (emphasized by the literal size of the menu itself). Thankfully, to somewhat help with the navigation, the offerings are broken down into sections: Botanas, Cubetas (Shrimp), Burritos, Tostadas, Tortas, Ceviches, Tacos, Especialidades (Specials), Parillada (grilled items) and dessert. They also have special menus for children (Young Amigos), and patrons who want to eat gluten free. After much deliberation, we decided to opt for:
Guacamole En La Mesa: Avocado, Tomato, Red Onion, Cilantro, Serrano Chili ($9)
Made table-side, I thought the guac was a solid first course. Maybe a bit expensive for the quantity (we literally each got a few chips worth and then had to violently scrape the bowl), but a well seasoned, balanced guacamole.
Ensalada de Esquites: Steamed Corn, Cilantro, El Catrin Aioli, Chili Piquin Powder, Quesillo Cheese ($8 for 3)
This basically reminded me of a deconstructed street corn. It was much easier to eat than gnawing on a cob and getting white crèma on your face, but not quite as good. I definitely enjoyed it (because I can't imagine not enjoying fresh corn), but I did find it to be a bit too salty to want to eat much more than the shot glass-worth.
Sopes: Corn Tortilla Stuffed with Black Bean Puree, Pulled Chicken, Salsa Verde, Lettuce and Queso Fresco ($12 for 2)
I wasn't going to even order this but I was so glad our server talked me into it as it turned out to be my favourite dish of the night. The sopes had this cushion-like texture and a mild sweet flavour, that when combined with the moist chicken, earthy beans, fresh salsa, and salty cheese, was perfectly in balance. So while I found the portion a little on the small side for the price, I would without question order it again.
Ceviche de Atun: Fresh Tuna, Lime, Olive Oil, Watermelon, Chive and Habanero Mignonette ($10)
Good but not something I would order again. For $10, there was very little tuna in the dish, and the habanero mignonette was so spicy I couldn't appreciate the delicate flavours of the melon and mild fish. The combination definitely has great potential, but the exact composition could use adjustment.
Tacos Baja: Crispy Fried Haddock, Red Slaw, Chipotle Dip, Salsa Roja, Flour Tortilla ($15 for 3)
A big time favourite at the table. The fish was light and moist with a blissfully crispy batter. The chipotle dip, albeit a bit excessive in ratio with the rest of the ingredients, was admittedly ridiculously addictive. I could eat a platter of these without thinking about it.
Gringas: Flour Quesadilla with Pastor Pork, Pineapple, Cilantro, Sliced Onion and Mild Gouda Cheese ($9)
Tasty, but safe. Unlike most commercial flour tortillas, this one was as light as a crepe. I only wished that there was a little more filling packed in and maybe a bit more caramelization on the outside- something to yield some textural contrast because the dish was a bit one note- mild in flavour and relatively soft in texture.Costilla Corta En Mole Negro: Beef Short Rib Braised 24 Hours with Black Mole Sauce, Sweet Potato Puree, Sauteed Sugar Snap Peas ($14)
This was a recommendation of our servers, and I was really glad we went for it. The short rib was impossibly tender and meaty, with very little residual fat to omit. I also loved the pairing of the complex and slightly bitter mole sauce with the light and fragrant sweet potato.
Cemita de Pibil Torta: Axiote Braised Pulled Pork, Pickled Red Onion, Chihuahua Cheese, Habanero Glaze ($12)
We all took a bite and instantly agreed- it reminded us of Fidel Gastros famous Stg. Slather Sammy....
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