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| - If you're searching for foodie hidden treasure in Phoenix, turn your back on the strip malls. You need look no further than Quiessence, "A Garden to Table Experience." As the BF pointed out, "This is what Binkley's should aspire to be."
The philosophy of the restaurant centers around local and seasonal ingredients. Quiessence is a showcase for local growers such as McClendon's. The provenance of nearly every ingredient is noted with strong connections to Arizona. Chef Greg LaPrad's food is not only local, seasonal, sustainable and responsible, it's also delicious. This is the kind of place that does Alice Waters proud.
Since Quiessence depends upon the best seasonal ingredients, the menu changes nightly. The BF and I had the six-course tasting menu. The portion sizes were perfect and the wine pairings were good.
Amuse Bouche: As it should be, we were given a bite of apricot stuffed with local cheese and kissed by mint that left us wanting more.
Course 1: "The Chef's Spread," a tasting of housemade salumi, terrines and cheese. It's nice to know the Quiessence Charcuterie and Salumi program grew out of the desire to use every bit of the animals purchased for the restaurant. The accompanying housemade carrot, zucchini and yellow squash pickles were delightful.
Course 2: Chilled salad of cantaloupe, Armenian Cucumber, tomato and housemade croutons in a yogurt and dill dressing. It's rare that I call a salad course fabulous. The BF and I are going to shamelessly steal the idea and replicate it for our next dinner party.
Course 3: Housemade gnocchi with pork ragut. My family on both sides traces its roots back to Italy, so I am picky with Italian food. Sous chef Anthony Andiario's handmade cheese-infused gnocchi were spectacular and the ragout was perfect. The bowl had been properly warmed to keep the dish at temperature while I luxuriated in it. Our server initially forgot to bring us the wine for this course, but it arrived about halfway through.
Course 4: Fried soft shell crab with zucchini. Neither the BF nor I like soft shell crab. However, this version was so perfectly prepared that we both savored every bite. The zucchini in a savory sauce was a perfect contrast to the seafood.
Course 5: Pork tenderloin with bean and mustard "gruel." The pork was tasty and tender, but it was served fully pink in the center. We were fine with this, but some diners may not be as open-minded to rare pork. I liked the side dish, but the BF did not because it contained beans. The "gruel" was mondo ugly on the plate. Speaking of the plate, the tasting version came on a really awkward piece of china that curved up on one side to form a well for the gruel and then back down on the other side to create a small area for the pork slices. The plate felt crowded.
Up to this point, dinner was utterly sublime and Quiessence was on its way to a perfect five star rating. But then, alas, a star was lost with dessert.
Course 6: Sampling of cheesecake, pink grapefruit sorbet and chocolate "torte" with peach ice cream. These were classic "chef's desserts;" a cook made them but not someone with pastry skills. Chef Greg, please get yourself a pastry chef. With the access that your restaurant has to the freshest ingredients, your desserts should be a revelation. The best item was the pink grapefruit sorbet. It was tangy and refreshing and would have made a great intermezzo. The citrus zest cheesecake was okay, but a bit dense. The peach ice cream was fine. The chocolate "torte," however, was an abomination. The BF theorizes the cake fell as it was grainy and lumpy. At first, I thought it was either supposed to be cheesecake or some sort of chocolate bread pudding. I confirmed with the server it was a "torte." I cannot believe the kitchen allowed that mess to be served and it went back virtually untouched. The sad part is that was our final impression of the restaurant. Dessert cannot be an afterthought or lazy. The wine for this course was tawny and it did not complement the citrus flavors.
Putting the huge disappointment of dessert course aside, Quiessence was wonderful. We'll be back as this place would be a perfect showcase for guests or a special occasion. Next time we'll try the Brick Oven Table. It's a magical table outside in its own little cabana wrapped with mini white lights. It features an improvisational $95 pp eight-course meal that the chef and sous chef prepare for two to six people.
Quiessence features a relaxed atmosphere. The interior is neutral and many of the decorative items appear to be from Marshall's. The environment is pleasant enough and does not distract from the food, which is the real star of the show.
Your AMEX had best be prepared for a workout. The tab for the BF and I came to just over $310 with tax and tip. That included the $75 pp six-course tasting menu and the $40 pp wine pairings.
Please note that Quiessence is closed for the month of July.
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