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| - Rustic Cosmo, predating the current wave of gentrification in the area as prompted by the Drake Nexus, has been a Parkdale fixture since the 90's. Back in them days, as the old timers tell it, Queen Street west of Dufferin was a dangerous, untamed Killzone where newly arrived immigrants bravely eked out a perilous living amongst mutant crack babies, retired Mossad agents, roti fetishists, granola, design students and worst of all, artists.
Thankfully, those days are gone and a golden era of condo dwellers approaches. However, for those who want to viscerally experience a real connection to the past, Rustic Cosmo awaits.
Firstly, the décor has not changed in years. I have a vivid memory of eating brunch there one day around 2004 and realizing that the walls were painted with the exact same vivid purple we had just painted over in our new place. Only took two primer coats and three more of the light buttery yellow paint before that gruesomeness was banished. Having said that, I want to make it clear that in the Rustic, either the purple works or I'm so used to it I can no longer tell if it doesn't. Other features from late 80s, early 90s? Wood booths, de rigueur exposed brick and pressed tin ceiling.
For reasons like that memory, I can't really judge Rustic like I would other places. It's a neighbourhood spot, serving faithfully for many years. It's the default brunch spot where I could probably stroll in wearing my pj pants and not get a second look.
Food wise, they knock out their dishes with admirable consistency. Basic menu is a collection of bagel sandwiches and various breakfast options. Most plates come with a house mesclun mix salad with a balsamic heavy dressing. With breakfast options you also get home fries. Their home fries are just ok, with precooked potatoes briefly sautéed with what looks like a grainy mustard. For the record, I prefer my homefries to be a varying mass of crisp edges and soft creamy potato. Sunday is best for brunch, when they add a pretty decent eggs benny option to the menu.
The all-important coffee? Drip varies in quality (though it has been richer lately) and espresso based drinks are just "meh". This despite the impressive eagle topped espresso machine. Toronto has gone through several coffee revolutions since Rustic opened and they are now being judged by a much higher standard.
Service over the years has ranged from stellar to addled. However, I'd like to stress that without fail, servers are friendly and attitude free. I'll forgive the occasional lapse if their hearts are in the right place.
In summary, if you find yourself in the nabe, it's worth a visit. Don't expect fireworks, but don't be surprised if you enjoy the place. My rating reflects the warm fuzzies that live in my heart for Rustic.
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