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| - As a native Vancouverite, it shames me to say that I only really got into sushi after moving to Toronto. Sure, I could pack away an assortment of dynamite roll varietals, but I never developed the fervor for experimentation required of a devout sushi-lover. These last few years, however, I've expanded both the quantity and quality of my sushi consumption. More recently, two occurrences sparked a need for truly exquisite sushi: 1) I tried Koiso Sushi Bar in Kihei, Maui, Hawaii, and was blown away (my 5-star experience there is really the only reason Kaji gets a 4); 2) I watched the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi at the TIFF Lightbox (http://tiff.net/filmsandschedules/tiffbelllightbox/2012/3600001654) and was immediately hungrier and more determined to eat the finest fish than ever before (disclaimer: I have no personal or financial interest in TIFF or Jiro - I just thought it was a damn good film). This last point happened to coincide with a friend telling me Kaji is regarded as "the best sushi in Toronto, if not the Country". I was sold!
AMBIANCE:
Intimate and personal; we were seated at the bar, which gave us a great view of chef Kaji and his staff at work. The place itself only seats 30, so I recommend getting reservations. Notable particulars include: sous chef routinely handling items barehanded right out of the broiler; said sous chef constructing a bouquet of flowers out of carrot, cucumber and radish for another patron; Latin-based background music (whether this was Cinco de Mayo-related, or just a random oddity, is up for judgement).
DRINK:
Sake! Great selection of cold, warm, and unfiltered ranging from ~ $20-$40. Although I tend to gravitate toward the unfiltered, we had a cold, concentrated bottle (apparently it's routine to dilute with water - not so with this one!), as it was touted as being "good with sushi or sashimi" (/it was the most boozy). Standard Sapporo and Asahi available for those desiring a brew.
FOOD:
Only two tasting menus to choose from - the expensive (Takumi, $120) and less-expensive (Waza, $100). Each comes with appetizer, sashimi, main, assorted sushi, soup or noodle, and dessert (although I feel that we got slightly more with the Takumi option). We were advised to get one of each to share between the two of us, and I agree that's probably the best option. This does pose somewhat problematic for sharing, mind you, as some dishes are single morsels and definitely put one's dexterity to the test. From memory, the scallops stood out as being superior, and all the sushi and sashimi were splendid. One course was a bit strange in that it was both advertised and served cooked in cellophane. Being a plastic-phobe when it comes to food prep/storage, I was a little taken aback, but I figured a one-off was permissible (update: Wikipedia has informed me that cellophane is, in fact, made of cellulose. Who knew?!?).
COST:
See above. You're not getting out of here without dropping mid-300s for two (incl. tax and tip).
SERVICE:
Fantastic; constant refilling of tea, instructions on when and when not to use soy sauce with each dish, and prompt removal of finished plates replaced with the following course. Kaji himself is hilarious, and a complete jokester.
In the end, an incredible experience that won't disappoint. As mentioned, I only gave a 4 because of a superior sushi experience a few months prior, and because I found the dishes a bit more experimental and complex than I typically care for (I'm a pure-and-simple kinda guy). And it's bloody FAR away (Islington and the Queensway!). Also, I'm a stingy s.o.b. with my stars! Enjoy :)
- B
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