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| - I've been chasing the donut dragon since that somber day when the Brewnuts trial store in Tremont boxed its last done. Many a Saturday morning was spent over the past two years deciphering tweets and casing Ohio City coffee shops, trying to figure out where the Donut Fairy would land to sprinkle the day's limited run before they sold out. Life is back in balance now that Brewnuts has re-emerged from stealth mode.
I've felt the life-affirming joy of Blue Star Donuts in Portland. I've had the pleasure of a 3am Buckeye Donut after a big win in Columbus. But I've never tasted donuts as intriguingly flavorful yet as crisply executed as Brewnuts. While they hold true to what the core mission of every donut should be, the hints of craft-brew notes in the dough pleasantly enhance the overall flavor profile versus traditional donuts. What truly separates Brewnuts from the pack, though, is the synergistic pairing of those craft-brew flavors in the dough with unique icing and topping combinations (from staples like chocolate-glazed with sprinkles on a Breakfast Stout dough, to the exotic, like pulled-pork on a maple bacon bourbon ale dough). The beer also seems to improve consistency over standard dough, maintaining a slightly "doughy" level of moistness but with a crisp and light internal structure typically associated with drier donuts.
John and Shelley did an awesome job reviving the old bank building into the new retail store. The donut cases and ordering counter are flanked to the left by a set of craft-brew taps and a hand full of bar stools. Several high-top tables are arranged around the comfortably sized dinning area, with a small 'living room' couch and coffee table setup in the back by the window to the kitchen. The motif is an interesting melange of '50s soda shop, meets corner sports bar, meets rustbelt revival. All of which somehow fits well together to create a unique and welcoming space. Particularly impressive having read the stories of their odyssey through the City's labyrinth of red tape and a minefield of remodel 'surprises' over the course of their buildout.
I guess I will close by mentioning cost, as that seems to be the fault people have found in comments. I get that $3 a piece ($36 a dozen) is a lofty price for donuts, particularly in Cleveland. But my stomach and taste buds were quickly able to help my brain overcome sticker shock and hone in on the value proposition. While the wholesome satisfaction of two brewnuts is about on price parity with a half dozen donuts from a chain donut shop, one would need to eat all six chain-store donuts in order to achieve similar "fullness" from the two brewnuts. Plus they are hand made on site by local owner/operators who have put their soul into the business. So, my take on the cost critique is that brewnuts is about on par with standard donuts on a cost-to "belly" fullness basis, but in a class with no peers when you factor in "flavor" and "soul" fullness.
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