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  • Truly, one can see anything at a high end restaurant - in this case... statuesque, overdone tall young ladies with copious makeup, walking awkwardly in stiletto heels with a group of much less decadently dressed older gentlemen... And yet it did nothing to distract from the absolutely stunning meal and service that Robuchon provides. I've now been to four of Joel's establishments - Atlanta (now closed), NYC (now closed), L'atelier in Hong Kong (now expanded). I'm not sure why some open and other close, but it's certainly not because the food is poor in quality. This particular meal was the Menu A with 2 appetizers, 2 mains and a dessert. The Amuse Bouche was a Beet Gazpacho - the cheese that served as the contrast to the sweet beet added a fullness to the already complex beet that gave the gustatory tension that one expects from this class of cuisine. I had the bacon bread and a croissant as opening breads, served from an old-world bread cart brimming with fresh, warm goodness. The appetizers I tried were the caviar on crab and truffle/lobster ravioli. Both were excellent, though I was a bit overwhelmed with the fullness of the bed of crab meat. The truffle lobster ravioli was a good example of the near-fusion that Joel's dishes often have - flavours very reminiscent of asian dumplings in my book, which is not a disparaging remark in the least. For the mains, I had the black cod which was moist and very welcome to the palate followed by truffled spaghetti. Gloriously decadent, resplendent with razor thin wafers of tartufo nero (truffe noir), it was satisfying to the point of overwhelming. Topped off with a glass of sabayon and berries, the meal was spectacular. One can argue with the exact emphasis in any given dish, but there is unmistakable attention to detail and intentionality to every morsel. Sumptuous violet couches, flowers with silvered glasses and grays yields a suitable backdrop to the dining and meticulous service. Fully worth the price, and an intense enough an experience to ignore stranger patrons(patronesses).
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