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  • I've thought of the somewhat soulful quote "Cuisine does not measure itself in terms of tradition or modernity. One must read in it the tenderness of the chef." It's an open showing of ones self through food I guess, there can be no other description of it as an artist would throw a gallery of their work open for criticism to the world, good and bad. The space is small, elegant and beautiful. I'm sleepy and dehydrated but the small bar greets guests for a pre-dinner drink and the lively banter carries through the air. There are perhaps 20 tables, some lining a great view in the Mandarin. The staff ratio is high and they zip around with tremendous attention and courtesy; no rush nor pretense. The wine list is presented on an ipad, extensive with the usual selections of new and old world greats. There's a special truffles menu this time, so let's move on to the food. On a three course, I almost call the food heavy, portions can be large and saucy. The sauces are incredible, worth hanging on to for bread-dipping and the proteins are well-cared for and moist. So, I must first call on the slow cooked scallops with truffles as an appetizer, ridiculously good and delicate. Then there was the porcini veloute sauce foie gras, a tiny bite followed by two separates of scallop carpaccio and orange-onion gelee. The mains are the tandoori monkfish and Nuoc-mam salmon. Mushrooms abound in all dishes and the sauces are impeccable...did I mention I love mushrooms? (We're also kind of full at this point from all the bread-dipping) So dessert offers room only for the grand dessert, fairly grand and ambitious. I've lost count but several were better than the others. The tastes are worth words; pear, dragon fruit, passion fruit and a lovely tangerine sorbet...I'm a sucker for sorbet. You're in vegas, across the room is the guy demeaning his girlfriend, the apologetic italian party in front of me for being a little raucous. With one visit, I'm fortunate for great service and a stellar culinary experience.
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