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  • One food critic recently speculated that if Michelin rated Toronto restaurants, Scaramouche would get at least one if not more stars. I've recently had a chance to dine in a well known 3-star French restaurant in Napa Valley, and although the meal was truly spectacular, I have to say that the one I recently had at Scaramouche was more satisfying. (At a third of the price.) French cuisine is about perfect technique, not pushing boundaries, so don't expect mind-blowing originality or French/Sechuan fusion. You won't be served octopus foam and nothing will be frozen in liquid nitrogen. What you will get is impeccable quality, a lot of thought put into each dish and a touch of that "je ne sais quoi".Take a humble tomato salad. Served on an oblong plate, it starts with a little pear-shaped tomato on one end, then a larger green one and a succession of different varieties, sliced this way and that, all sprinkled with toasted almond crumbs. In the middle of the plate sits a puck of Manchego cheese-flavoured panna cotta. Then you continue your journey to the other end of the plate where, waiting for you, is another green tomato and a little one shaped like a pear. A perfect story arc, except that the story is told in tomatoes. Their steak tartar has a wonderful (chopped, not ground) texture and a perfect flavour. Lamb is served in two preparations: as boneless rack and leg, on a trendy smear of potatoes (whipped, not mashed). The partridge came out crisp and juicy, both dark and white meat. Whole paragraphs have been written here about Scaramouche's coconut cream pie, which the restaurant has been serving for the last 28 years, so it doesn't need me to sing its praises. I found it not too sweet (the way I like desserts) and actually refreshing, which you don't expect from coconut, or cream, or pie. The restaurant has an 80s ambiance, but it doesn't feel tacky or dated. It shows that when it was first built, no expense was spared to make it classy and timeless. Scaramouche isn't a family restaurant and it isn't perfect for a casual Friday night with friends. (Unless your friends are rich and you book well in advance.) Located all by itself, in a residential neighbourhood, it attracts diners with a purpose. Perfect for a small celebration, or just a celebration of French cuisine, it's one of the best restaurants in Toronto.
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