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| - Delux vaguely irritates me and I can't quite figure out why. It might be that because since it has opened, Phoenix magazine has breathlessly stroked it with loving essay after loving essay, complete with pictures, all of which painstakingly include its one gimmick, a miniature shopping cart to deliver french fries in. Still, sometimes you want a good burger, and last night was one of those sometimes, so we decided to head over to Delux at long last and check it out. Have you ever thought to yourself "ha ha, if there is one thing I know for sure in this world, it is that a glorified hamburger joint could never have a menu that could be considered pretentious?" If so, it is clear that you haven't been to Delux. The menu, six pages long, devotes one half of one page to its two hamburgers (signature and classic), one and a half pages to other food and four pages to various types of booze you've never heard of. In the food section, their ground beef, its origin and the manner in which it is prepared is described regally, using language clearly designed to indicate that you should be thankful you only have to pay ten bucks for it!
OK, so what of it? It's the Biltmore, I knew I was facing up a ten-dollar burger, so STFU and get on with it, right? Well there's no getting around it. This is a damned fine hamburger. It's not often that you will get to a place where it's menu SUGGESTS that their burgers are best served medium rare - rather than suggesting that if you get it medium rare there's a chance you could DIE. This one simple fact more than any other made me certain that Delux isn't just flapping its gums about the origin of their meat. They know where it comes from and are close enough to it to suggest that you can have it prepared in a manner that might put you in the hospital if you were dealing with commercial ground beef. They deserve a lot of kudos for this. I had their classic burger with American cheese (because blue cheese and carmelized onions, found on their "signature" burger - are not my thing on a hamburger). I had it medium rare. It was absolutely fantastic, easily the best burger I've had in this city. So there. I said it. The shopping cart is cute if non-sequitur. The regular fries were merely OK. I liked the sweet potato fries better than I thought I would, but the suggestion that a lot of yelpers have made that they are the second coming is a tad overblown.
The service was absolutely great, but I doubt that my experience could be considered a test case, because we were there off-peak and there were more employees present than patrons. Seriously, the place can't be any bigger than 1500 square feet, and I counted nine employees! Plus one for helping out the local economy, but minus several million for efficiency?
All in all, this place is too full of itself, but you can't argue with the end result. When I want a good burger, I'll be back.
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