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  • Last night was our first visit to the new and improved Otani. I've generally been a fan of their food, but had always been put off by the somewhat cold space...and the fact that, being next to a Subway, the restaurant positively reeked of yeast. But recently, they moved a few doors down to a space probably five or six times as large, added a full (separate) bar, greatly expanded the sushi bar, and put in three teppanyaki tabletops. New furniture and swank decor round out the upgrade, and an upgrade it most definitely is. While the previous location was serviceable but uninteresting, the new space is a destination, with an upscale atmosphere, subdued lighting, and more comfortable chairs. But of course, the important question is, has the food changed? The menu certainly has. Otani now offers a limited selection of Chinese and Thai dishes alongside the sushi and other Japanese fare--and, of course, they now prepare and serve hibachi. We were there for straight-up Japanese food, though, so that's all I can speak to. The verdict: good, but not great. I've had better--and I've had MUCH worse. The fresh salmon nigiri was tender like butter, but seemed to be slightly short on flavor. Unagi nigiri was spectacularly flavored, but a tiny bit on the tough side. And unagi maki was crunchy (a nice substitute for salmon skin, which I couldn't find on the new menu), but the rice and seasonings seemed somehow bland. I ordered a yakitori chicken appetizer to start, and was similarly whelmed. The chicken was very clearly a top-shelf cut of meat, but the meat on the skewers was almost comically overlarge, lacked any flavor of smoke or grill, and was coated in a slightly-too-sweet teriyaki glaze. I know this doesn't sound like a ringing endorsement, but taken as a whole, Otani Hudson is a place I'm willing to give a second, third, and fourth chance to. Having tried only three types of sushi, I'm unwilling to dock the score too heavily for what may have been simply bad luck in my ordering. And considering we walked in after 9:00 pm (the restaurant is ostensibly open until 10, though it was deserted at 9), I'm willing to give the chef and the kitchen a bit of leeway. Fortunately, the new space is inviting enough that I'm eager to give it another shot, especially since the restaurant now has daily happy hours, occasional live music, and--oh my, yes--karaoke on Wednesday nights. (And ladies: Thursday is Ladies' Night! All night!) It's more upscale than the generally spartan sushi restaurants in the area, but far less obnoxious than Sushi Rock or even Wasabi. That's pretty much the perfect spot for me. Long story short: If you'd tried Otani before but were put off by the small space or Subway smell, rush back to see what they've done with the place. If you're looking for a new sushi joint in the area, it's a great spot for a not-overly-special occasion. Just beware that the kitchen may be working out a few kinks.
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