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| - ***Twist delivers contemporary French cuisine; it is good for Vegas but still a notch below top SF and Chicago spots***
Twist is yet another Vegas fine dining restaurant from an internationally acclaimed chef like Robuchon and Savoy. Twist is newer though. It is located on the 23rd floor of the Mandarin hotel. Being newer, I was hoping for more contemporary cuisine than what I've had at Vegas' other fine dining French restaurants and Twist delivered.
Twist features a lot of good (and modern) food while still showcasing French ingredients and cooking techniques. Twist offers several dining options. You can go for a more value-centric 3-course dinner. You can also order a la carte where you choose from elaborate plates that feature proteins in multiple interpretations (the multiple presentations of foie gras sounded interesting) as well as big Prime steaks. Finally, you can opt for one of their tasting menus--a vegetarian option or their seasonal tasting menu (available in 4 or 6 courses).
I opted for the tasting menu and it started off very well. First came a series of tasty amuses. There were lavash breadsticks with albacore cream and bonito flakes (pate-like in richness), an almond sable, very good goat cheese sandwiched between two light and crispy crackers, and a really good Guinness and Jack Daniels gelee rolled in gingerbread (great burn but also sweet--reminiscent of the cocktail gels at LA's Providence).
The bread was also good (several warm options including a warm bacon and smoked cheddar roll, a crusty French baguette, a too dense brioche roll, herb and feta, and cherry pecan bread).
My first course was sea bass and haddock carpaccio with citrus and horseradish ice cream. The fish was good--moist and soft--and went well with the citrus and herbs to give it freshness. The horseradish ice cream was very creamy and had a noticeable horseradish flavor without being overpowering.
My second course was easily my favorite of the night. It was foie gras ravioli next to seared langoustine in a herb and coconut milk broth (topped with crispy mushrooms). The foie gras ravioli had a thick pasta skin as well as creamy, buttery and savory seared foie gras at the center. The langoustine was very nicely cooked--fresh, lightly sweet, plump, and soft. The broth was very aromatic. This reminded me of the buttery foie gras ravioli at Providence and the perfectly cooked langoustine at L'atelier de Joel Robuchon (two very good restaurants).
Next up was a fish course and it was disappointing. It was turbot and the fish was a little tough and not easy to flake--definitely far from Baume's soft and flaky turbot. Worse than the slightly tough fish was the grapefruit (very acidic and bitter). This felt like something that maybe should have came earlier because the acidity was too much for an entree.
A good intermezzo of apple and yuzu sorbet with Dungeness crab came next. Chicken followed and it was served on warm greens with pistachio. I do not often see chicken on fine dining menus, but I was glad to see it because chicken can be really good if a crispy skin is achieved and the meat is juicy. The meat was fairly juicy here, but there was no crispy skin. The greens were okay, but this course felt overseasoned.
Wagyu beef was the final savory course. It was served over warm sweet and sour red cabbage slaw. The Wagyu had a fair amount of richness. Unfortunately, it was overcooked. It was also more like tri-tip than a true steak so it was slightly tough and chewy.
Dessert consisted of a series of mini desserts, which I felt overall were too fruit focused as well as too tart. The first dessert was really good strawberries with cream and a nice strawberry sorbet. The pistachio and cucumber parfait was refreshing and had great creaminess, but there were too many leafy greens, which resulted in a salad-like flavor and texture. There was also a shortbread cookie with blackberries. The chocolate part of the dessert had rich chocolate ice cream as well as light meringues and a fruit paste.
Service was excellent--very polished and personable. I thought my server Breanne was really good and the male server assisting her delivered food presentations with professionalism and knowledge but also an enthusiasm that really makes you want to dive into the food.
Prices were very high, but that is the case with many Vegas restaurants.
Twist provides a good view of The Strip; the dining room is nice, elegant and contemporary.
I am not a fan of Vegas restaurants and there were a few things about Twist that reminded me why I feel this way (the high prices and how Vegas fine dining does not measure up to SF or Chicago). The food here felt more exciting than Aureole, Guy Savoy and miX though and it is worth a shot if you are looking for high-end but also contemporary French cuisine in Vegas.
CityCenter offers free self parking.
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