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| - I've had the chance to dine here more than a few times now and have a pretty good impression of the restaurant, its service and its food. Overall, I think it strives to offer a restaurant experience a bit outside of the ordinary for Madison, but the ambition isn't matched by its execution.
Most recently, I put together a small group for dinner during one of their Wednesday night concert on the square menus. I reserved a table in advance through a hostess on the phone approximately 3 weeks before, who suggested that I arrive a little early before the seating (630) so I would have a choice of tables. This turned out to be unnecessary since they had reserved a table with my name up front next to the fence of their outdoor dining area. There also isn't any advantage to sitting closer to the street, since one can't really see much of the orchestra above all the other attendees in the square who bring their own chairs and refreshments. The music is amplified through a PA, so everything is easily heard front and rear of the patio dining area.
Unfortunately, there wasn't an amuse offerred nor any table snacks during the 30 minute wait before food (a 4 course fixed menu), so it's best not to arrive too hungry. Cocktails are offerred but - even with 4 servers covering approximately 32 diners - it can take awhile to get them.
The food is well put together and well seasoned. A generous cheese plate delighted, a flavorful bourbon pork loin on polenta was filling if served a little too cold, and a frito misto with calamari and tomatos was very tasty, if also too cold. The problem is the restaurant chose to serve as if catering an event rather than cooking to order. Each course came out at once for everyone, rather than FIFO. This also had the unfortunate impact of serving those that had waited the longest (the earliest arrivals), last, since they were farthest from the kitchen. It made me wonder if they had chosen to forego an expediter.
Dessert was a moist little chocolate cake square, served with some rather ho-hum cherries, a rossette of cream and no sauce. Not bad, just underwhelming and further contributing to the feeling of eating banquet food.
A wine pairing erred on the sweet side, though saved by a refreshing French rose choice.
I noticed a larger party at a table close by received additional baskets of fried things from the kitchen, choices which weren't offerred to us, their drinks were refreshed faster and they always got their food first. Friends of the chef, perhaps, but it sure made me wish we had stopped at one of the many little food stands out on the square and noshed instead. If I find a reason to go to this event again, I'll do that.
Previous meals were in the same ball park: imaginative pub fare with upscale designs, junior varsity service and a great beer selection. I'd go back, but probably not until after I've explored the many other dining options downtown.
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