Just an excellent guided tour with a TON of information presented in a very entertaining manner. Unfortunately, though, it is a totally guided tour - you can only look - cannot touch - under the careful eye of your tour guide.
I found out more about the neon, the history of sign making, and general Las Vegas history than I will ever retain!
Something worth noting - it is a complete outside tour, and in Las Vegas at noon in September it can get like really hot and there is no shade. They do provide umbrellas - take them!! The tour is an hour-long.