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| - This is a two-part review:
Part One: Lunch--The Burger. As unlikely as it may seem, for my money, RM Seafood makes THE BEST HAMBURGER in Las Vegas. Executive Chef Adam Sobel (who came from Bradley Ogden's kitchen, and has topped their famous burger) makes a juicy all-natural Niman Ranch patty cooked with just a slight char, firm in texture but light enough to fall apart. On the standard butter-toasted sesame seed bun, topped with shredded lettuce, melted cheddar, onions smothered until almost compote, and a perfect heirloom tomato slice. The only fault here is sloppiness-and for some, that's a plus.
Part two: Dinner. Simply some of the best seafood (in terms of product and preparation) you will have *anywhere.* And it's all sustainably harvested. Start with a bowl of their signature clam chowder, the ultimate expression of that simple soup, filled with freshly shucked clams, bacon, onions and other vegetables, each flavor distinct yet complementary. Or, if you don't join the throngs ordering the two-tier raw bars, other remarkable starters include a single white Georgia shrimp, crusted with aromatic toasted garlic and spices, vanilla-orange confit, basil essence and cucumber "noodles;" the Deadliest Catch "salad," an arty presentation of buttery Alaskan king crab, varieties of heirloom beets and compressed watermelons, and a cucumber blossom over a tomato and squid ink sauce that plays on your palate like swirling watercolors; and wild Sockeye salmon gravlax rolled with corn, dill crème fresh and American osetra caviar.
Grilled swordfish, more mild and tender than typical, comes atop curried chic peas and under an olive-laden Niçoise crust, with preserved lemon to perk the palate. Steak frites offers juicy slices of velvety skirt steak with Bernaise sauce, aged 20 days and portioned to be part of a meal rather then the whole deal. The seasoned potato wedges definitely left us wanting more.
A great punctuation mark to the meal comes in the form of a sake bomb (beer boilermaker with sake) accompanying a lightly fried piece of uni and foie gras rolled sushi-style, a gorgeous bloom of sugar, yeast and lipid. But if sweetness is required, you'll guffaw over Rick's Tasting Game, a chessboard of 16 mystery gelato flavors (laugh hard enough and the irrepressible chef himself may pull up a chair to tease you further).
They are looking to finally re-open the top floor for even more fancy preparations by Moonen, Sobel and third star chef Gerald Chin soon. Can't wait to see what they come up with.
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