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| - The Weary Traveler occupies a space on Madison's East Side Isthmus that once housed a number of restaurants and businesses - all of which came and went. But the Weary, as it's known to neighborhood folks who frequent it, is a mainstay. Anyone familiar with the Madison food scene knows that the Berge Brothers (and partners) constitute a dynasty - with one branch operating the Weary and Magnus and another, Barriques, among other ventures. Yet their success is well deserved; the Berges operate some of the most consistent, finest and most comfortable food and drink outlets the city has to offer.
Despite this lineage, the Weary still maintains a humble, and appealing, feel; it's a neighborhood hangout with Django Reinhardt on the stereo and a full bar filled with service industry folk, east side residents and people who were lucky enough to stumble through. The tables are well worn, the ambiance is dark and cozy, and the menu is great, although it never changes - yet classics seldom do.
A full complement of board games (Scrabble, Trivial Pursuit, Apples to Apples) is available for patrons, suggesting that no one expects you to hurry in and out of the Weary; on the contrary, the kitchen is open until 1 AM and you are welcome to sit and play games, cards or just chat with friends over good food until then.
The menu's standouts are, as always, the West of the Andes sandwich, whose tenderloin version comes with a beautifully cooked and tender piece of locally-sourced beef. Or get it with a tuna steak for a lighter experience. Both are perfectly balanced by a slightly sweet roll, pico de gallo and plenty of avocado.
The Weary's own version of the Thai classic soup, Tom Ka, is chock-full of mushrooms, flavorful tomatoes, green beans and pieces of tofu, and is brimming with rich, delicious coconut flavor. The cup is big enough for two people to share; the bowl could feed a crowd.
For those who like burgers, Bob's Bad Breath burger earns rave reviews, too - but heed its advice and know that the garlic will do your friends in post-dinner.
Cocktails at the Weary are stiff and no-nonsense; the Old Fashioned is always a good choice, as is the Mojito. The Weary also offers plenty of good beers on tap and in bottles, too.
I hesitate to put up such a rave review of the Weary, which feels like our own little neighborhood gem, but word gets around, anyway, and it's only fair to give it its due. There's more than enough room for everyone, anyway, and all are always welcome.
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