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  • Having walked about 30 minutes in the wrong direction absentmindedly, I completed my long hike to Bouillon Bilk. In Montreal for a conference, it was dinner for 1, with my trusty friends The New Yorker and The Economist my only companions. I was delighted to find that the restaurant has seating along both sides of the large central bar, ideal for the lone rangers among us. The decor is unpretentious and minimalist without being sterile. The use of high and low tables helps make the dining room dynamic. For its small scale, it has a sense of theatre. My server, Naomi, was lovely and attentive. As she explained the specials it became clear that this is a restaurant that constructs dishes with many elements-- varied ingredients, garnishes, sauces-- it all sounded very ambitious. I ordered the duck, with cherries, brown rice, snow peas, a mustard reduction, and topped with seared foie gras. On the side I ordered a special of various Quebecois mushrooms, apparently in season. Some hearty country-style bread and an excellent local Pilsner tied me over until the main courses arrived. To get to the point, the food was excellent. Better executed, more satisfying, and more delicious than most similarly "ambitious" eateries in New York. With all the things happening on the plate, every bite was so well balanced-- savory and sweet in a killer combination. Dessert was also on point. They kindly accommodated my request for a simple bowl of ice cream-- scoops of both homemade sesame and coffee flavors, at once delicate and rich. And as Naomi explained, the chef couldn't just send out two scoops ungarnished, so the bowl had little pansy petals sprinkled on top. I highly recommend the restaurant for those who want to instantly confirm that Montreal is a city with a serious and apparently thriving food culture. And importantly, aside from the food, the atmosphere is convivial and relaxed. It was worth the hike.
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