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  • I found myself in Phoenix, and the Golden Coin called out to me. Was it the minimal selection of only 8 or 9 options, at least two of them not at all Chinese, that brought me back? Certainly, I ate my fill of crisp wonton strips, fried rice, egg rolls, stir-fried vegetables, and the inevitable sweet and sour pork. I avoided completely the fried chicken and the french fries, and didn't regret my choice. I tried the chow mein noodles but didn't go back for more. I lamented the lack of lemon chicken, a favorite of mine from when I came here over 20 years ago. Was it the price? $7 and change for your fill of Chinese food and a drink is pretty reasonable by any standard, even if the selection isn't much to look at and the food itself doesn't stand out either. Service is kept to a minimum - your money (cash only please!) is taken as you enter and water and/or a soda of your choice is brought to a table chosen for you while you load up your plate. Empty plates are taken away regularly, and food is replenished periodically from behind the mysterious doors where it sounds like a lot of cooking is happening. Was it the ambience of a cash-only business with a single room for seating, the sounds of the cooking behind the scenes nearly drowned out by the sound of someone watching their Chinese film on a portable DVD player behind the counter? The worn tables and plastic plates that look just as they did 20 years ago, shaped vaguely like alien faces from the classic 1950's version of 'War of the Worlds'? The truth is that it was all of these things. Mike Kwan's Golden Coin is neither great nor terrible. The selection is limited, the food only fair (though I love those wonton crisps!), the service is minimal, and the price is right. But Golden Coin remains today mostly like what it was 20+ years ago, right down to the worn tables and the alien-face plates. Walking in and smelling the food is a strong dose of nostalgia, and remains a consistent experience in a world filled with change.
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