Quite the revelation. Especially if you remember the shopping center from the 80s and 90s. The Family Dollar a few doors down recalls the down market past, and even the Thomas Ave. funk of recent vintage is stepped up several notches with BLB's take on fine dining in the Plaza/Midwood corridor.
The space itself is surprisingly open, airy, and woody and makes good use of its corner location. The vibe is absolutely more upscale than neighbors like Dish, but not stuffy. That is plus for dinner service -- if it can find a sustainable market.
Both the wine and beer selections seemed well informed, a nice, caring touch. Apps skew toward a Mediterranean palate, but creatively so. Hence a Pan Seared Halloumi (cheese made from a mixture of goat and sheep milk) that won big fans and the duh, no-brainer in retrospect pairing of avocado & asparagus in a crunchy almost egg-roll deal. Strong flavors that stopped stop of overpowering.
Entrees show an inflection point. The Swedish meatballs are huge faves and stretch from the popular Sunday brunch to the dinner menu. Fine. But the specials struck me as particularly creative and well-executed. A cumin and caraway encrusted rack of lamb on a bed of pearl couscous and peas managed to be both rich and very light. And halibut catch of the day was a tremendous example of seafood prepared simply -- without gobs of butter or cheap wine trying to mask the flavor. Or salt. Had to have been one the most lightly salted prepared meals I've had in a long time. Wonderful.
The inflection comes with the price -- $26 for the lamb, $29 for the halibut. Totally and completely worth it for any remotely serious diner. But also pushing the tab to a $50 per person price point that I am not entirely certain the corridor can support (although it should.) Interesting, our server mentioned that they were moving to more of a tapas-style small plate approach -- which is usually a sign that owners are afraid they are pricing themselves out of a market and hope to make up the difference on alcohol. (Must note that across the parking lot neighbor Soul Gastrolounge does do a big biz on the tapas/small plate/sushi tip.)
Aping that approach would be a shame as BLBs top tier fine dining entrees really do set BLB apart from anything in East Charlotte.