SMOCA is in a beautiful loft space with really really really high ceilings. Don't expect to spend too much time here as there are only 5 galleries. We flew through here in about 20 minutes. If you can visit before January 20, 2008, check out the video installations by Hiraki Sawa. Innovative, surreal and sooting. It was a highlight for me.
I don't think there's really a permanent collection because it's so small. The gift shop is excellent and we probably spent more time in there than the actual museum. The exhibits we saw were interesting and impressive but we left wanting more.