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| - This is hands-down my favorite restaurant in Montreal. Here for an extended stay this year, and might find something that beats this amazing little spot (now located on St. Denis around the corner from its original location), but I doubt it.
Their veal sweetbreads remain a favorite - beautiful flavor and texture, a slight golden crust on them that provides a small crunch before getting into the perfectly cooked meat, which is soft and sublime. I have yet to have better sweetbreads, anywhere. Especially one that is balanced so perfectly as this one, which features roasted mushrooms, exceptionally smooth parsnip puree, and seasonal accent veg (Brussels sprouts leaves, or this time, with fiddlehead fern for spring), all with a delicious sauce.
For the first time, also tried what apparently has become a spring/summer feature on their menu: seal. Served 3 ways as an appetizer - smoked, dried, and as a nicely kicky spiced hard sausage. I'd never had seal and didn't know what to expect. I anticipated oily, maybe. But the meat, rich and brick-red, is delicious. If you've had bison, it might be closest to that, but as prepared here, think bison sausage. The plate was essentially a charcuterie, with delicious, lightly pickled veg such as baby fennel.
The salmon with lobster ravioli (main) was a terrific blend of light and rich, topped with shaved fennel, with the ravioli accented by licorice (a nice complement to the rich lobster). The pork terrine appetizer was like the most decadent head cheese (one of my favorite things in this world when done well), with a swath of fois gras running through the middle. It was served with cooked pears and grapes, not quite a compote but on its way - a nice play of sweet and tart with the rich terrine.
Dessert, too, was no exception. I should have taken a pass, the meal was already so rich, but they pay the same attention to the last course as the others. A chocolate and Espelette pepper ganache was served with a perfect grapefruit and basil granite. If that sounds rich, the cheesecake was richer - infused with chicory, which maybe got buried in the cheesecake - and served with cooked, spiced prunes.
The service was again above and beyond friendly and attentive, even at their busiest (and I went on a Saturday night). That's been my experience every time.
Thank goodness they didn't move far. I'll be back in the coming weeks as the season and menu change.
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