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| - Zack Bruell does it again, adding yet another crown jewel to the burgeoning Cleveland fine-dining scene. My wife and I celebrated Valentine's Day here, happily engaging in the deadly sin of gluttony. The result of our piggishness is plenty of dishes for you to read about below.
The list of appetizers was impressive, and we could have happily ordered ten of them and called it a night. Instead, we settled on four, all of which were expertly executed and delectable:
1. Mussels Provencal - The combination of plump, fresh mussels and savory olives is a must-have for any mussel-lover. There was no grit at all, the olives were not briny, and all the flavors were well balanced. Superbly executed.
2. Chicken Wings - These wings have dethroned Greenhouse Tavern's wings as my favorite in Cleveland. The unique combination of goat cheese and tomato dust in the "wing sauce" created a Moroccan-style flavor that took these perfectly fried wings to the next level.
3. Beef Ceviche - A great blend of high-quality beef ceviche and diced fruits and vegetables. The crispness of the fruits and veggies was a nice counterpoint to the soft texture of the beef. If I had to find fault, I would say that the beef could have used a touch more acid, but that is a minor quibble.
4. "Bacon and Eggs" - This pairing of perfectly cooked pork belly and an airy, creamy frittata was one of the single best dishes I've ever had. Each component would have been outstanding on its own; in concert, they were stunning. Do not fail to order this.
We then moved on to salads. Unfortunately, this course was a mixed bag:
1. Haricot Vert Salad - This was great. A perfect composition of green beans, blue cheese, tomatoes, and pickled onions with a balsamic vinaigrette. Clean, delicious flavors. Highly recommended.
2. Belgian Endive Salad - This salad was confusing. The blend of celery root, marcona almonds, and cheese was quite successful. But the endive was so overwhelmingly bitter, and combining that with an excess of truffle oil did not help matters. Perhaps some sweetness or acid could have helped to balance the dish, but I really think that there was no overcoming the bitterness -- it was simply too assertive. There was also a bit of endive core in the salad, which is a no-no. Hopefully, they can fine-tune this dish, as it has a lot of potential.
Our bellies already full, we moved onto entrees. Both were very good, though mine fell short just a bit:
1. Crispy Giant Pork Shank - This was my entree. The kale on which the shank rested was heavenly, having absorbed all of the great flavors. The generous helping of thyme dumplings scattered throughout the plate were very tasty. The only flaw was with the star of the dish --while the pork fell off the bone nicely, it was a bit dry in some parts. However, the parts that were cooked properly were moist and bursting in flavor. If they can master the cookery on the pork, this would be a masterpiece, and I would not hesitate to recommend it. Even with the dryness, I would still recommend trying your luck with this dish -- it's hearty and perfect for the winter.
2. Pacific Rock Fish - This was my wife's entree. The fish was cooked perfectly. It was not quite as spiced as my wife and I expected, but it did not suffer for it. The fish had a nice coating of "tomato crumbs" (dehydrated tomato) and sat in a yummy pool of tomato-basil butter. The broccoli rabe and spinach were also cooked very well.
We cut short our entrees to save room for dessert. To end the night in true gluttonous fashion, we ordered three desserts:
1. Dark Chocolate Ice Cream - Nothing fancy, just three scoops of some insanely perfect Mitchell's ice cream. So damn good.
2. Meringues - This sort of looked like a burger constructed of meringue buns and a burnt-caramel ice cream patty in between. These meringues are not like the soft meringue that you'd find on top of Key Lime Pie -- they were more like crispy biscuits with a texture akin to astronaut ice cream. They tasted great -- how could egg and sugar not -- but you should know what you are ordering. The ice cream here was also excellent.
3. Peanut Butter and Jelly Cheesecake - This was also yummy. The density of the cheesecake was a little off-putting at first, but I soon stopped caring once I began stuffing my face with it. Perfectly flavored -- not as overpowering as you might expect. Worth a try if you are a cheesecake fan.
While our overall experience at Cowell & Hubbard was not quite perfect, it was still stellar, especially considering that it had only been open about a week at the time. It's a gorgeous, tastefully modern space. The staff was very attentive; our server Loretta was enthusiastic, and the manager frequently visited to gather feedback and make recommendations. I have no doubt that any flaws will be worked out soon, and I look forward to dining there before every visit to Playhouse Square. A good value for the quality (and quantity) of food. Don't miss it!
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