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| - Complaining about Toronto's kosher restaurants is a bit of a hobby of mine.
I'm fortunate to be friends with a few members of the Orthodox Jewish community. I'm even more fortunate that we share a love of food that bridges our different philopsphies and often provides the canvas for enertaining and informative conversations. While my friends' dining options are somewhat more limited than mine, I can easily get by, and kasruth itself becomes part of the conversation.
Bound by ancient laws and traditions, simple prohibitions against eating pork or seafood, or boiling a kid in it's mothers' milk have given rise to a series of increasingly restrictive rules which speak not only to the food that ends up on one's plate, but the plate itself, the kitchen that prepares the food, and the whole supply chain from farm to table. Supervision and scrutiny are required at every step of the way, and different sects may interpret the same rule differently.
Done right, Kosher food comes closer to the organic, local ideal that foodies espouse. Done poorly, it turns food into bureaucracy, drained of colour and taste as business owners sacrifice quality in order to pay the freight for the gatekeepers of the kashruth process.
There are some very good kosher restaurants in the city, but for the most part you pay a significant premium to eat healthy, tasty food. Combined with further laws that prevent a certified kosher spot from opening during days of observance, and it's a wonder that anyone makes a go of this kind of business.
Here endeth the rant.
Because Tov-Li is awesome whether or not you claim membership in the Tribe.
A mini-chain with locations in the heart of Toronto's Jewish community, Tov-Li offers it's own take on (Middle) East meets West. The menu promises everything from Italian to Israeli, with soups and sandwiches thrown into the mix. Said mix does not include meat. Don't try to order pepperoni on your pizza.
Do order the pizza, with any number of fresh or roasted vegetables. A plain cheese slice is closer to New York style than most. Toppings are fresh, sometimes more abundant than others. Sauce is bright and more flavorful than most. Cheese is surprisingly light on the palate. I suspect it's because true Kosher cheese uses a different kind of rennet (sheep aren't Kosher).
Salads are similarly fresh, though traditionalists might be offended by the substitution of iceberg for romaine in the Caesar (which traces back to the expense of inspection-Romaine has more nooks and crannies, apparently). Those who are offended by the lack of bacon should move on to another review. A mixed salad plate opens a world of possibilities; eggplant, carrot, beet, turnip, hummus 'n' tahini and other options could unclog the arteries of the most hardcore carnivore, especially when scooped up with fresh, fluffy pita bread. The same fillings, along with tuna, egg and other dairy standards are available as submarine sandwiches. With the exception of a roasted vegetable version, they're worth a miss.
Put bluntly, Tov-Li makes the single, absolute best falafel that I have ever tasted. Falafel preferences are intensely personal and often associated with one's political identity. I prefer the Israeli chickpea-only style, though primarily because I like thetaste; it's a brighter, less beany falafel and a better showcase for garlic, cumin and cilantro. Tov Li's falafels are fried to a firm crispy golden brown, with soft yielding centres. The pita is fresh and pillowy, and the sandwich is stuffed with an array of fresh and pickled vegetables. Hot sauce is a smoky sharp kick to the back of the throat. Ask nicely and they'll balance it withh a schmear of creamy eggplant dip.
Service is perfunctory. Order at the near corner and pick up at the back. Balance your overstuffed pita in a paper plate as you make your way to one of several fast-food style tables. Eat quickly, and leave. It's not a place to linger with a sweetheart, especially if you're not the marrying type. Tov-Li caters to a modest crowd, so PDAs are best avoided.
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