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| - Between the unassuming exterior and its location just off of the high traffic areas of downtown, Il Campari Centro is easily missed if not for the recommendation of someone who has been there, in our case the concierge of the nearby Sheraton. The interior of the restaurant is unmistakably dated yet appealing with a mix of wood features and colorful accents that befit a classic Italian dining experience. The staff is the first real indication of what is to come, as they exude an air of warmth and professionalism upon entry that continues throughout the entirety of the meal. I later discovered that most had been working together at the restaurant for many years, explaining not only the quality of the service but how comfortably they assisted each other.
We began our meal with the Fiori di Zucchini appetizer. The zucchini flowers were crisp and tasty with a mild flavor, serving as an effective warming of the palate without interfering with the main course. For that portion, I ordered the Ravioli di Formaggio alla Puttanesca while my companion had the Osso Bucco alla Milanese. The ravioli were small and thin for easy consumption and had a pleasant texture. The eggplant, olive, and pea accents added flavor to the dish without being overwhelming. Meanwhile the veal of the Osso Bucco was exquisitely tender, supplemented by a subtle assortment of flavors. The pace between dishes was leisurely, encouraging the savoring of each and providing sufficient time to rest before the next. It should also be noted that each of the items featured impressive presentation. I am not one of those people who takes pictures of their food to share on social media, yet these dishes very nearly caused me to do so.
As much as I appreciate chefs who push boundaries and attempt ambitious combinations of elements, there is much to be said for the steady, high-quality execution of classic dishes. That appears to be the theme for Il Campari. There is no pressure to be different or new, the emphasis is on delicious meals and excellent service that represent the best of the Italian dining tradition. Having seen too many quality restaurants disappear over the years, I implore both the visitors to and the residents of Montréal to support this one. Hopefully your experience will be as pleasurable as my own.
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