..."Then it was time for the universally appealing steak frites ($24). When the eight-ounce flatiron arrived with a side of amber-gold frites, it was proof that the old classic didn't need to be reinvented. Besides, when does a good steak ever need an update? The frites had been double fried, as evidenced by the crisp exterior and meltingly soft interior. As for l'entrecôte, the flavour was robust. I suspected that it wasn't given ample time to rest, preventing the juices from redistributing and yielding a lukewarm interior. The accompanying café de Paris sauce, on the other hand, was proof that the saucière was technically adept."