| rev:text
| - To me, the prices on a menu amount to a promise: if your steak is 10x the price of another place's same cut of steak, you're saying to me, "the experience of eating this steak is 10x better than that other guy's steak." Better can comprise more than just the steak,itself, it includes the overall dining experience. Colicchio's fails to meet that promise.
Don't get me wrong, they've got an attentive, solicitous staff. Absent that staff, this would have been a one-star rating (lower if the option were available). I ordered a shrimp cocktail and split the beef tartare with my wife as starters. I ordered the surf & turf as my main.
Didn't order wine because this week is likely to be heavy in exertion and alcohol and wanted to save the livery pummeling for later in the week. That said, the wine menu seemed fairly complete. When your wine menu has a ToC and the red burgundies start at page 32 (and that page is maybe the halfway point of the booklet), you can assume the place has a fairly deep wine menu. So, points for that. The wine my wife ordered was fairly decent, so points there.
Where it all fell apart was the food.
The shrimp cocktail was fairly basic ...so didn't really warrant the premium price vice what I'm used to back in the DC area (an area not exactly known for low-priced dining options).
The steak tartare was very bland. Really wanted kicking up with capers and/or horseradish ...or even a peppery type of leafy green accent. To be honest, my wife makes far better tartare at home.
My turf-half of my main was competent if not especially worthy of the price premium. The surf-half, on the other hand, was godawful. Yeah, I should cut them some slack for being 2000+ miles from Maine. That said, if you're going to put something on the menu, you should be confident that your efforts will be well received. The lobster meat was overcooked and dry ...and pretty much tasteless but for the concentrating-effect that the preparation-method had on the iffier elements of distance-shipped lobster. The clarified butter it was served with actually made the experience worse. The only thing that made it somewhat tolerable was lemon juice ...which I had to ask for (it wasn't just served with a lemon).
Oh well: at least the meal got me a decent amount of hotel points. I probably should have considered the fact that "this is a hotel restaurant" before plunking down for $300+ for a meal for two (though, restaurants in hotels like the Four Seasons are reliably better than this place was).
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